1 00:00:12,120 --> 00:00:18,040 Welcome to the 9th annual festival movie Real Rock Tour 2 00:00:18,200 --> 00:00:22,480 Video presented by North Face 3 00:00:22,580 --> 00:00:24,800 Everyone needs beauty, 4 00:00:24,900 --> 00:00:27,500 as much as bread. 5 00:00:29,100 --> 00:00:33,149 Places to play... and pray. 6 00:00:34,049 --> 00:00:39,149 Where nature can heal and give, for body... and soul. 7 00:00:40,350 --> 00:00:44,649 The mountains are calling... So I have to move. 8 00:00:48,100 --> 00:00:52,850 Also recommended by Goretex and Windstoper 9 00:00:52,950 --> 00:00:56,049 Expanding possibilities in the world's most difficult environments 10 00:00:56,750 --> 00:00:59,649 New Goretex Pro and Goretex Active products 11 00:01:00,149 --> 00:01:04,150 are the latest achievements and the tradition and experience of past decades 12 00:01:05,950 --> 00:01:07,000 permanently waterproof 13 00:01:08,099 --> 00:01:10,099 windproof, 14 00:01:10,599 --> 00:01:12,599 extremely breathable 15 00:01:12,900 --> 00:01:15,299 The Goretex mark guarantees you that you will be dry 16 00:01:15,750 --> 00:01:17,250 promising satisfaction. 17 00:01:17,750 --> 00:01:20,450 Goretex products - more experiences. 18 00:01:24,280 --> 00:01:29,640 Real Rock proudly presents a unique premiere of a new documentary 19 00:01:29,800 --> 00:01:33,680 with Sender Films and Big Up Productions 20 00:01:33,880 --> 00:01:37,920 Uprising in the Valley. 21 00:01:38,400 --> 00:01:50,480 The history of the development of our sport in the largest climbing area on earth. 22 00:01:52,450 --> 00:01:55,150 Real Rock is also sponsored by Clif Bar 23 00:01:55,250 --> 00:01:57,700 I'm Gary Erickson I am the creator of Clif Bar 24 00:01:58,599 --> 00:02:03,200 I believe that Clif Bar could not exist without multi-pitch and large-wall climbers. 25 00:02:03,349 --> 00:02:06,799 Clif Bar was created by climbers 25 years ago 26 00:02:07,750 --> 00:02:09,550 Been part of this sport for a long time 27 00:02:09,650 --> 00:02:12,150 and continues his adventure in this 28 00:02:15,300 --> 00:02:18,550 Evolve. Celebrates the roots of climbing. 29 00:02:18,650 --> 00:02:21,150 I'm Lonnie Kauk I was born in Yosemite Valley 30 00:02:21,849 --> 00:02:24,250 In camp four I bouldered 31 00:02:26,250 --> 00:02:28,750 It must be in the DNA to do these things. 32 00:02:31,650 --> 00:02:37,750 Petzl helped me over 20 years ago at the first passage of the Nose to El Capitan 33 00:02:38,650 --> 00:02:44,250 Today, most top climbers and explorers use Petzel to achieve the unattainable. 34 00:02:46,449 --> 00:02:49,849 Sterling ropes. New Era where Helix uses the latest technology 35 00:02:50,750 --> 00:02:53,849 created on the basis of previous performance and durability 36 00:02:54,750 --> 00:02:58,650 Visit your nearest climbing shop and discover the next generation of Sterling. 37 00:02:59,349 --> 00:03:01,250 Elevate your experience. 38 00:03:03,150 --> 00:03:06,650 A real challenge when you're there and you take up the challenge is to have a source of energy 39 00:03:06,949 --> 00:03:08,949 Everything is becoming more and more advanced. 40 00:03:10,050 --> 00:03:12,250 Nowadays you need energy wherever you are 41 00:03:12,549 --> 00:03:15,449 If only to stay in touch. 42 00:03:17,849 --> 00:03:20,550 It tells the history of our sport, 43 00:03:21,349 --> 00:03:23,949 from the legends of the past to the modern leaders. 44 00:03:24,750 --> 00:03:26,349 Both on paper and online. 45 00:03:30,550 --> 00:03:35,250 Vote in the next National Geographic for the next Adventure of the Year 46 00:03:39,400 --> 00:03:41,599 Daily wall entry: $16 47 00:03:43,099 --> 00:03:45,400 Rope and flights: $350 48 00:03:45,800 --> 00:03:47,400 Climbing insurance in America: 49 00:03:48,949 --> 00:03:50,550 Only $35 50 00:03:51,099 --> 00:03:53,000 Join Accessfund 51 00:03:53,400 --> 00:03:54,900 American Alpine Club (AAC) 52 00:03:56,699 --> 00:03:58,150 Together we are stronger. 53 00:03:59,948 --> 00:04:00,949 and the Sierra Club 54 00:04:01,658 --> 00:04:05,662 Discover, learn and protect our planet. 55 00:04:09,800 --> 00:04:11,500 Now we are ready for 56 00:04:12,000 --> 00:04:14,599 Uprising in the Valley 57 00:05:09,200 --> 00:05:10,560 Why do people climb? 58 00:05:10,720 --> 00:05:13,480 - That's a good question... 59 00:05:14,520 --> 00:05:19,160 - Because we are dead. There can be no other reason. 60 00:05:26,760 --> 00:05:30,960 For me, the beautiful thing about climbing is that it cannot be justified, 61 00:05:31,160 --> 00:05:34,560 He doesn't try to be useful. 62 00:05:37,240 --> 00:05:43,200 Some of us have to be there to face the unknown. 63 00:05:43,400 --> 00:05:47,720 You are completely absorbed in the experience. 64 00:05:48,680 --> 00:05:51,760 Movement meditation. 65 00:05:55,560 --> 00:06:04,040 Your consciousness opens and you feel as if I could go on like this forever. 66 00:06:04,850 --> 00:06:08,350 If you are a climber and you live to race against gravity, 67 00:06:09,750 --> 00:06:12,649 then you must make a pilgrimage to Yosemite. 68 00:06:14,750 --> 00:06:17,250 - This is the place - There's only Yosemite 69 00:06:17,850 --> 00:06:19,850 - The land of struggle - Center of the universe 70 00:06:19,850 --> 00:06:22,840 - Mecca for climbers. 71 00:06:23,720 --> 00:06:27,360 This is where it all started, this is where it really took off 72 00:06:29,120 --> 00:06:31,720 The history of rock climbing is written on these walls. 73 00:06:32,240 --> 00:06:36,120 This is the pedigree. We have arrived in the Valley climbed on the shoulders of giants. 74 00:06:36,280 --> 00:06:39,480 You surpass yourself, you surpass sport and see what you are capable of. 75 00:06:42,160 --> 00:06:45,200 They're a bunch of freaks doing crazy things. 76 00:06:45,440 --> 00:06:48,800 I want to leave a mark and set new standards. 77 00:06:48,960 --> 00:06:52,920 They push boundaries and challenge the status quo 78 00:06:53,120 --> 00:06:58,877 People beyond the pale, strange, ragged. Seekers, visionaries, unique. 79 00:06:59,086 --> 00:07:00,712 "SECURE WITH STRENGTH" 80 00:07:01,449 --> 00:07:03,850 - On the verge of existence. - Standing against the law. 81 00:07:04,550 --> 00:07:06,850 And vigorously chasing his dreams. 82 00:07:07,427 --> 00:07:14,160 Life in Yosemite is awesome, baby. 83 00:07:15,560 --> 00:07:21,040 Uprising in the Valley. Yosemite Valley's climbing revolution. 84 00:07:21,920 --> 00:07:24,600 Script and direction: Peter Mortimer and Nick Rosen 85 00:07:25,360 --> 00:07:27,600 Animations: Barry Thompson 86 00:07:27,760 --> 00:07:30,750 translation by ear: Tomasz Fedyniak 87 00:07:32,149 --> 00:07:33,750 The revolution in Yosemite has begun 88 00:07:35,149 --> 00:07:38,550 with the arrival of the generation of climbers in the 1950s 89 00:07:41,280 --> 00:07:45,640 At a time when America was absolutely not looking for adventure. 90 00:07:47,240 --> 00:07:50,840 Join the quiet life of families in the suburbs. 91 00:07:50,750 --> 00:07:53,649 After the experiences of World War II, 92 00:07:54,350 --> 00:07:59,050 people want a comfortable routine and security 93 00:07:59,880 --> 00:08:03,640 and new mixers in the kitchen 94 00:08:03,550 --> 00:08:05,149 The stupid American dream of the 1950s 95 00:08:05,949 --> 00:08:07,449 then get married and have children as soon as possible, 96 00:08:07,649 --> 00:08:09,949 buy a dishwasher... 97 00:08:12,640 --> 00:08:14,600 It was a totally inappropriate moment. 98 00:08:14,750 --> 00:08:18,250 The basis was safety and comfort, the main values. 99 00:08:18,949 --> 00:08:22,250 There was no room for the spirit of adventure. 100 00:08:23,800 --> 00:08:26,480 But it was also a time of change. 101 00:08:27,449 --> 00:08:31,750 In California, there was a beatnik movement by writers such as Jack Kerouac, 102 00:08:32,549 --> 00:08:35,049 who called on young people to break away from conformism 103 00:08:35,350 --> 00:08:39,240 and discovered other areas of life. 104 00:08:41,800 --> 00:08:44,149 Many met in jazz cafes in the city. 105 00:08:44,950 --> 00:08:47,149 Others were soaking up the waves on the beaches. 106 00:08:48,649 --> 00:08:53,549 While a few, inspired Kerouac's vision - the "backpack revolution", 107 00:08:54,750 --> 00:08:56,350 she went to the mountains. 108 00:08:56,880 --> 00:09:01,680 Where they were able to discover the world of climbing. 109 00:09:02,560 --> 00:09:07,960 It started in small suburbs rocks near San Francisco and Los Angeles. 110 00:09:07,950 --> 00:09:10,750 When I first encountered with climbing near Stony Point 111 00:09:11,950 --> 00:09:13,549 I thought, "Wow, this is fantastic" 112 00:09:16,120 --> 00:09:23,320 Danger, involvement and risk. We were addicted to adrenaline. 113 00:09:28,350 --> 00:09:31,649 There was climbing in those days perceived as an introduction to mountaineering 114 00:09:32,149 --> 00:09:35,250 with a conservative approach to security. 115 00:09:35,450 --> 00:09:37,450 funny grandparents had a rule: 116 00:09:37,950 --> 00:09:40,649 "You can't climb unless you suitably qualified managers" 117 00:09:41,600 --> 00:09:44,480 And we wanted to have fun so we said, "Fuck it" 118 00:09:47,760 --> 00:09:51,400 We all started out, you know, mostly in sneakers. 119 00:09:51,560 --> 00:09:53,549 We stole some rope from a telecommunications company. 120 00:09:54,350 --> 00:09:56,850 There was no harness, so we tied ourselves with a rope around our waists. 121 00:09:59,920 --> 00:10:03,200 This built our character. 122 00:10:04,250 --> 00:10:05,850 In the hands of these young rebels, 123 00:10:06,850 --> 00:10:09,250 climbing has become a new extreme sport, 124 00:10:10,149 --> 00:10:14,250 who redefined the concept of gravity. 125 00:10:21,600 --> 00:10:29,360 Climbing was rare then, but today it is part of mass culture. 126 00:10:29,520 --> 00:10:34,440 It was a real counterculture sport. And it was a privilege to be a part of it. 127 00:10:34,600 --> 00:10:36,750 In search of first ascents on virgin rocks 128 00:10:37,350 --> 00:10:41,450 climbers went deeper and deeper into the California mountains. 129 00:10:42,640 --> 00:10:49,600 About 200 miles east of San Francisco there is one of the wonders of the world. 130 00:10:54,360 --> 00:10:58,480 until they came across Yosemite. 131 00:10:59,960 --> 00:11:07,640 The Golden Era 1955-1970 132 00:11:12,960 --> 00:11:17,450 Yosemite National Park is demarcated along a 25-kilometer-long valley, 133 00:11:18,649 --> 00:11:21,850 surrounded by vertical glacial walls. 134 00:11:23,040 --> 00:11:24,549 Hectares of beautiful granite. 135 00:11:25,750 --> 00:11:29,250 Completely clean and smooth. You can almost believe... 136 00:11:29,549 --> 00:11:33,120 that only God could create something like this. 137 00:11:33,280 --> 00:11:37,800 It was a place where we could devote ourselves to adventure. 138 00:11:38,040 --> 00:11:41,549 It met in Yosemite Valley a group of climbers who started their journey 139 00:11:41,549 --> 00:11:44,850 aiming to engrave their own names in the history of these walls. 140 00:11:46,840 --> 00:11:50,040 People like Royal Robbins, 141 00:11:50,200 --> 00:11:52,360 Yvonne Cunnard 142 00:11:52,640 --> 00:11:54,760 Tom Frost 143 00:11:54,960 --> 00:11:56,880 Steve Roper 144 00:11:57,040 --> 00:11:58,720 and Chuck Pratt 145 00:11:58,840 --> 00:12:01,350 We were hardcore, dedicated climbers 146 00:12:01,250 --> 00:12:04,049 raising standards and exceeding limits. 147 00:12:04,560 --> 00:12:10,720 The first vibration in the air there was an atmosphere of great adventure. 148 00:12:13,480 --> 00:12:18,480 And until the 1950s, climbing John Salathe was in charge in the valley 149 00:12:18,680 --> 00:12:21,250 Swiss eccentric, who was collecting his dinner on the meadows 150 00:12:21,950 --> 00:12:24,850 and established the first grand ascents in Yosemite 151 00:12:26,280 --> 00:12:30,360 When we arrived in the Valley, John Salate reigned there at that time. 152 00:12:30,520 --> 00:12:34,399 Climb with great imagination and boldness 153 00:12:34,250 --> 00:12:36,250 so we tried to imitate him in this. 154 00:12:37,040 --> 00:12:40,850 Salate became a mentor to this new group of climbers in Yosemite rock crafts 155 00:12:42,250 --> 00:12:45,250 Using steel wedges called hooks, to overcome cracks 156 00:12:46,350 --> 00:12:48,549 and drawing input diagrams. 157 00:12:49,440 --> 00:12:54,160 The walls offered a lot of work 158 00:12:54,360 --> 00:12:58,320 It was like going to the moon or something 159 00:13:03,640 --> 00:13:07,920 The idea of devoting your life to climbing it didn't exist anywhere else. 160 00:13:08,120 --> 00:13:10,450 We had one goal: Climb hard, make good routes. 161 00:13:11,049 --> 00:13:14,250 Only through climbing will you find yourself. Such nonsense... 162 00:13:17,160 --> 00:13:22,600 None of us thought about having a job. 163 00:13:23,160 --> 00:13:24,549 We basically became homeless. 164 00:13:25,649 --> 00:13:28,250 And we wanted to climb forever, that's all. 165 00:13:38,280 --> 00:13:42,160 The epicenter of the climbing scene was Camp 4 166 00:13:42,400 --> 00:13:50,680 the dark valley floor became Sherwood Forest for this merry band. 167 00:13:51,600 --> 00:13:53,950 "Frodo lives" 168 00:13:57,400 --> 00:14:02,760 Living in Camp 4 you had to reduce costs 169 00:14:02,960 --> 00:14:08,840 it was not an ordinary human way of life. 170 00:14:08,350 --> 00:14:11,149 One summer to the supermarket There were a lot of damaged cans 171 00:14:11,649 --> 00:14:16,149 and I bought a lot of damaged canned cat food. This is what we ate 172 00:14:20,760 --> 00:14:24,280 I mean, life on the edge 173 00:14:25,520 --> 00:14:31,440 life in Camp 4 had a controversial, countercultural tone 174 00:14:31,600 --> 00:14:38,760 We had rather revolutionary attitudes. 175 00:14:38,960 --> 00:14:43,640 Climbing was usually their manifestation. 176 00:14:47,120 --> 00:14:51,920 We were barbaric, vulgar, we drank a lot 177 00:14:52,120 --> 00:14:57,840 We chased women Without much success. I have to admit. 178 00:15:00,760 --> 00:15:02,149 However, the beatnik bacchanalia remained contradictory 179 00:15:03,049 --> 00:15:07,049 with the values of another group visiting Yosemite. 180 00:15:09,640 --> 00:15:11,450 Yosemite was a park for tourists. 181 00:15:12,049 --> 00:15:16,549 Designed for people from the suburbs, to get closer to nature without losing comfort. 182 00:15:17,760 --> 00:15:21,549 It intrigues young and old the enchanting beauty of this waterfall. 183 00:15:22,250 --> 00:15:24,750 Oh... oh... look at the ice cream. 184 00:15:26,200 --> 00:15:30,480 Tourists didn't fit in with us our ugly languages make for noisy parties. 185 00:15:30,720 --> 00:15:33,049 Everyone was liberated. Just wimps. 186 00:15:33,149 --> 00:15:39,960 One sad man came and said: keep it down a little please, you are scandalizing my family 187 00:15:40,160 --> 00:15:43,280 The guards came and everything was over. 188 00:15:43,480 --> 00:15:48,400 We hated the authorities. I still hate her. 189 00:15:48,600 --> 00:15:51,450 Climbing was not a serious activity at that time. 190 00:15:52,149 --> 00:15:53,950 It was an outlaw activity. 191 00:15:58,480 --> 00:16:03,049 They didn't like the weird ones scratched, abnormal people. 192 00:16:03,549 --> 00:16:07,049 These unusual types from Yosemite they simply disturbed good people. 193 00:16:11,750 --> 00:16:15,240 I worked at the Ahwahnee Hotel. 194 00:16:14,850 --> 00:16:18,149 The management board was very conservative. 195 00:16:18,750 --> 00:16:22,549 Climbers were not particularly popular, as they ate from the guests' plates 196 00:16:24,350 --> 00:16:27,049 We were forbidden to contact climbers, 197 00:16:27,450 --> 00:16:29,750 even under the threat of losing your job. 198 00:16:30,600 --> 00:16:34,600 Which, of course, only aroused greater interest. 199 00:16:37,040 --> 00:16:40,549 When I first appeared at Camp 4 there was a party in the forest. 200 00:16:42,149 --> 00:16:44,649 The climber who sat directly opposite. 201 00:16:46,080 --> 00:16:51,400 He looked at me stubbornly and finally said: "You are a beautiful woman" 202 00:16:51,600 --> 00:16:56,240 My first thought was: "He's a really direct person" 203 00:16:56,480 --> 00:16:59,350 The man on the other side of the fire was Royal Robbins, 204 00:16:59,549 --> 00:17:02,149 a climbing legend yet to be created. 205 00:17:02,750 --> 00:17:05,549 Even now, I think of myself first as a climber. 206 00:17:06,549 --> 00:17:09,849 Every time I pretend to be... and in the rocks I feel full. 207 00:17:12,250 --> 00:17:15,250 Everything has always revolved around climbing. This was his life. 208 00:17:15,849 --> 00:17:17,450 He did not think beyond it. 209 00:17:18,040 --> 00:17:22,960 Royal competed with everyone - Robbins was a very passionate man 210 00:17:23,120 --> 00:17:26,720 To have the respect of your peers you have to keep raising the stakes. 211 00:17:26,880 --> 00:17:31,160 You must constantly do better things than you have already done. 212 00:17:31,320 --> 00:17:36,960 Robbins was the leader of Camp 4 at a pivotal moment in climbing history. 213 00:17:37,120 --> 00:17:39,349 The equipment has evolved, the technology has improved, 214 00:17:40,049 --> 00:17:44,650 climbers were ready to stand face the great challenges of this sport. 215 00:17:45,800 --> 00:17:49,800 but the main challenges remained intact. 216 00:17:49,960 --> 00:17:53,450 Robbins focused his eyes far and wide a larger and more vertical wall, 217 00:17:54,349 --> 00:17:56,150 than any previously tried. 218 00:17:58,560 --> 00:18:03,120 The northwest face of Half Dome 219 00:18:03,320 --> 00:18:09,840 Perhaps the most frequently photographed in the world. - Powerful and terrifying. 220 00:18:11,000 --> 00:18:14,099 More than just another climb. Walls icon. 221 00:18:14,599 --> 00:18:19,500 600 meters high. It required a vertical expedition. 222 00:18:21,440 --> 00:18:26,800 It takes several days to climb the 600m walls. 223 00:18:26,960 --> 00:18:32,880 Nobody knew if he had the skills, equipment and technique to survive this long in the wall. 224 00:18:33,080 --> 00:18:40,800 That would be fear. Half Dome seemed to be saying: "Try me if you dare." 225 00:18:40,960 --> 00:18:42,500 One spring morning, 226 00:18:43,000 --> 00:18:45,700 Robins has amassed a small arsenal of equipment 227 00:18:46,150 --> 00:18:47,450 and with a three-person band... 228 00:18:48,440 --> 00:18:52,840 ...set out to make history on Half Dome 229 00:18:57,120 --> 00:18:59,849 The team moved along the crack system, 230 00:19:02,150 --> 00:19:04,650 moving slowly, pulling out the hooks 231 00:19:07,650 --> 00:19:09,349 and sucking in equipment and water. 232 00:19:14,240 --> 00:19:16,150 The night watched them on the wall. 233 00:19:19,250 --> 00:19:22,349 During the day they climbed higher and higher. 234 00:19:24,049 --> 00:19:26,750 Until returning was no longer possible, 235 00:19:28,250 --> 00:19:31,950 and the only escape was to reach the top. 236 00:19:38,150 --> 00:19:47,220 This is one of the great examples of devotion to the unknown. Uncovering the mystery 237 00:19:51,120 --> 00:19:57,023 We felt like we were trespassing to another world. It would be a vertical world. 238 00:19:57,480 --> 00:20:01,553 5 day climb to Half Dome set a new level of difficulty 239 00:20:01,720 --> 00:20:08,030 and cemented Robbins' status as an American climbing icon. 240 00:20:08,600 --> 00:20:13,927 When you see Royal with the Royal Robins signature, you think... oh my god! 241 00:20:14,040 --> 00:20:18,023 Imagine yourself over-intellectualized a beatnik who reads classics, 242 00:20:18,200 --> 00:20:20,349 a serious, reliable guy. 243 00:20:20,950 --> 00:20:25,150 determined to prove that he is the greatest climber in Yosemite. 244 00:20:26,150 --> 00:20:32,211 You want to be the first, you want to be the best. It's natural. 245 00:20:32,360 --> 00:20:39,161 But there was one man there, a rival for the royal title. King of the Great Wall... 246 00:20:39,960 --> 00:20:46,407 Warren Harding. An ambitious surveyor with an appetite for fame 247 00:20:47,960 --> 00:20:50,299 His mother named him after the president. 248 00:20:50,799 --> 00:20:53,349 But at the age of 30, he was still living with her. 249 00:20:54,240 --> 00:21:00,142 Drinking heavily, he nursed a hangover with adrenaline rushes while climbing. 250 00:21:01,200 --> 00:21:08,290 When you see Harding, you see a builder with a serious alcohol problem 251 00:21:09,000 --> 00:21:17,742 Constantly wanting women and fast cars. With a childish sense of humor. 252 00:21:17,800 --> 00:21:19,349 Our personalities are very different. 253 00:21:19,450 --> 00:21:22,349 They were extremely different. Their personalities were opposites. 254 00:21:24,549 --> 00:21:29,881 Robbins and Harding collide it was a clash of climbing titans. 255 00:21:30,000 --> 00:21:32,643 They had both wanted Half Dome for a long time 256 00:21:32,800 --> 00:21:40,750 And when Robbins did, Harding went on the only higher wall in Yosemite 257 00:21:40,880 --> 00:21:43,478 El Capitan 258 00:21:43,762 --> 00:21:47,799 Take the Empire State Building, put it up three times, 259 00:21:48,799 --> 00:21:50,849 then you will get the highest wall of Yosemite. 260 00:21:51,478 --> 00:21:53,450 300m higher than Half Dome, 261 00:21:54,250 --> 00:21:57,750 El Cap lay beyond King Robbins' dreams 262 00:21:58,549 --> 00:22:00,950 The captain was impossible. We all knew it. 263 00:22:01,950 --> 00:22:03,150 We didn't even think about it. 264 00:22:03,349 --> 00:22:07,655 It seemed so big that he would spend the rest of his life on it. 265 00:22:07,800 --> 00:22:13,976 The captain was in the realm of the absurd. Too futuristic. But not for Harding. 266 00:22:14,520 --> 00:22:18,143 For Harding, they are nothing more than an achievement giving him an advantage over the King. 267 00:22:18,320 --> 00:22:23,442 Take the central road a pillar of the wall known as the Captain's Nose 268 00:22:23,600 --> 00:22:26,183 The nose - it's wonderful 269 00:22:26,320 --> 00:22:28,900 Harding gathered young enthusiasts. 270 00:22:29,599 --> 00:22:32,849 And they approached the topic as an engineering project. 271 00:22:33,680 --> 00:22:38,015 Hundreds of meters of rope, a trolley on wheels to draw in supplies 272 00:22:38,160 --> 00:22:40,029 and a gastronomic orgy. 273 00:22:40,160 --> 00:22:43,657 Take all kinds of food, wine and brandy. 274 00:22:43,760 --> 00:22:46,982 His mother baked us a turkey 275 00:22:47,160 --> 00:22:52,694 We put him in the stroller and spent Thanksgiving on the shelf. 276 00:22:52,750 --> 00:22:56,250 Most climbers did walls all at once. From the base to the top 277 00:22:56,950 --> 00:22:58,349 Harding had another idea. 278 00:22:58,750 --> 00:23:02,049 As his team climbed, leave the railing ropes, 279 00:23:03,049 --> 00:23:04,849 which allowed them to retrieve supplies from below 280 00:23:07,049 --> 00:23:10,549 take a break from climbing... 281 00:23:12,650 --> 00:23:15,250 ...and then came back and raised the ropes higher. 282 00:23:18,450 --> 00:23:21,650 It looked like a complete siege on the wall. 283 00:23:24,720 --> 00:23:31,221 Month after month that became years Harding's team had to. 284 00:23:31,360 --> 00:23:34,485 They reached the point where it was taking too long. 285 00:23:34,680 --> 00:23:37,653 It's too much, forget it. What the fuck am I doing here? 286 00:23:37,800 --> 00:23:45,237 I hated it all the time up there. I've had enough of this exposure. 287 00:23:45,240 --> 00:23:49,848 With the band on the verge of falling apart, Warren Harding did not budge. 288 00:23:49,849 --> 00:23:53,349 After almost two years of continuous climbing and sliding down the wall 289 00:23:54,150 --> 00:23:57,349 Harding reached the summit of El Capitan. 290 00:23:58,450 --> 00:23:59,898 My God, El Capitan is disgusting. 291 00:24:00,482 --> 00:24:05,028 It was undoubtedly a milestone American climbing of that time. 292 00:24:08,800 --> 00:24:11,299 When Harding gets on top of the Captain 293 00:24:12,700 --> 00:24:16,450 This is the moment when rival Royal Robbins must wake up 294 00:24:16,800 --> 00:24:19,927 and the tension between them crystallizes. 295 00:24:20,080 --> 00:24:25,289 After Half Dome, climbing Harding for the Nose would be a good move 296 00:24:25,440 --> 00:24:30,465 On the Yosemite chessboard such a move wins the game 297 00:24:30,600 --> 00:24:35,804 Robins' response was to take 4 guests and running the Nose correctly. 298 00:24:39,120 --> 00:24:41,349 No handrails, no constant climbing and descending. 299 00:24:42,150 --> 00:24:44,849 A path that took over 18 months at first entry, 300 00:24:45,600 --> 00:24:52,564 Beat it in just a week. The king leads again. 301 00:24:58,760 --> 00:25:03,250 In the 1960s when America discovered the Earth's closest neighborhood. 302 00:25:04,049 --> 00:25:06,549 And the Human Rights Movements demanded justice 303 00:25:07,320 --> 00:25:13,008 Royal Robbins was part of the avant-garde Yosemite climbing explosion 304 00:25:13,080 --> 00:25:13,650 After defeating the Nose, 305 00:25:14,349 --> 00:25:17,849 Royal established his new path on El Capitan: "Salathe Wall" 306 00:25:18,185 --> 00:25:21,605 the wall is unspeakable powerful and mysterious, 307 00:25:22,022 --> 00:25:28,320 and everyone who repeats this path today, I feel respect for Royal Robbins 308 00:25:28,680 --> 00:25:31,349 By the end of the 1960s he had completed all routes to El Cap, 309 00:25:32,349 --> 00:25:33,849 and establish three new ones at Half Dome... 310 00:25:34,600 --> 00:25:42,706 We climbed without knowing Is it even possible? 311 00:25:42,840 --> 00:25:49,037 One wall after another, was the king of the Golden Age of Yosemite. 312 00:25:50,040 --> 00:25:51,849 With a series of impressive climbs next to his name 313 00:25:52,750 --> 00:25:57,349 Royal Robbins began to articulate he had a philosophy of climbing. 314 00:25:59,480 --> 00:26:05,022 For Robbins, climbing was sublime, almost a spiritual experience, 315 00:26:05,200 --> 00:26:06,549 therefore it should be cultivated 316 00:26:07,250 --> 00:26:08,150 in the purest form possible. 317 00:26:09,520 --> 00:26:14,453 Getting to the top is nothing, but the way you do it is everything. 318 00:26:17,800 --> 00:26:23,149 Robins has become a style fanatic. What matters is how you treat it. 319 00:26:23,280 --> 00:26:27,150 Taking a cue from John Salathe and his examples of courage and steadfastness 320 00:26:27,950 --> 00:26:30,950 Robbins and his friends established a set of rules 321 00:26:31,240 --> 00:26:35,159 how guilty they think she is what climbing in Yosemite looked like. 322 00:26:35,280 --> 00:26:37,849 Robbins criticized one from Harding's tactics on the Nose. 323 00:26:39,049 --> 00:26:41,650 Like using guard lines. 324 00:26:42,920 --> 00:26:45,150 You should climb to the top Honestly, it's an adventure. 325 00:26:46,049 --> 00:26:50,349 You can't protect yourself using the cord leading to the ground. 326 00:26:51,560 --> 00:26:53,250 He showed particular contempt for 327 00:26:53,950 --> 00:26:56,150 for expansion plugs used by Harding, 328 00:26:57,659 --> 00:27:01,997 Seating the joints made it possible to overcome the smoothest parts of the wall 329 00:27:03,480 --> 00:27:07,028 If you drive anchors into walls wherever you want then you will always reach the top 330 00:27:07,200 --> 00:27:14,406 I hate this kind of climbing who is devoid of fighting with himself 331 00:27:14,049 --> 00:27:16,250 Royal was a guest, who invented and wrote down the rules of the game 332 00:27:17,549 --> 00:27:19,549 by which the rest of us played. 333 00:27:20,250 --> 00:27:25,049 We all tried to climb according to Robbins' style. 334 00:27:26,150 --> 00:27:28,250 Except Warren Harding, of course. 335 00:27:29,440 --> 00:27:33,123 Harding invented most of his philosophy in a bar. 336 00:27:33,280 --> 00:27:35,750 Harding made a list of hard climbs 337 00:27:36,549 --> 00:27:38,150 without paying much attention to Robbins' principles 338 00:27:38,640 --> 00:27:44,060 Harding put bolts everywhere... ...sophisticated and bordering on absurd 339 00:27:44,240 --> 00:27:49,388 He would describe his climb as a great farce, it was ridiculous. 340 00:27:49,520 --> 00:27:53,381 Every climb I make is a farce so why don't you have fun. 341 00:27:53,840 --> 00:27:56,450 Founded the Association corrosive, drinking and furry. 342 00:27:57,549 --> 00:28:00,450 Dedicated to gluttony and laziness. 343 00:28:02,720 --> 00:28:07,619 It was a reaction to the great ideas of climbing. 344 00:28:07,800 --> 00:28:11,049 Robbins was described as too serious... 345 00:28:12,250 --> 00:28:18,450 and always say about him and his people: "Christian Valley" 346 00:28:19,920 --> 00:28:21,549 The Valley of Christians expects from others, 347 00:28:22,349 --> 00:28:24,849 I will climb exactly like this how they climb. 348 00:28:25,920 --> 00:28:32,471 Did it move me? Yes, that would be a mocking comment. 349 00:28:33,560 --> 00:28:35,750 He was a Royal and had someone next to him this is vulgar madness 350 00:28:37,250 --> 00:28:39,450 undermining the beautiful world, that you are trying to create 351 00:28:40,080 --> 00:28:42,383 that must have been really annoying. 352 00:28:42,560 --> 00:28:45,250 For Harding again, have it next door this square head, 353 00:28:46,049 --> 00:28:48,250 with his small group of acolytes... with this principle.... and that principle... 354 00:28:48,840 --> 00:28:56,721 It must have driven them both crazy. - Oh yes, they were at each other's throats. 355 00:28:57,160 --> 00:29:01,265 After over a decade of stalking 356 00:29:01,440 --> 00:29:09,676 final confrontation between Robbins and Harding occurred in 1970 357 00:29:09,840 --> 00:29:16,120 Robins lead was spectacular and sensational climbs, one after another 358 00:29:16,320 --> 00:29:19,162 Harding looks anxious look at El Capitan 359 00:29:19,320 --> 00:29:26,228 Harding will move as soon as Robbins does he failed on one part of the Captain 360 00:29:26,280 --> 00:29:30,349 The last smooth part of El Capitan, 361 00:29:30,549 --> 00:29:32,450 a wall illuminated only by the early morning sun. 362 00:29:33,349 --> 00:29:35,049 "Morning Wall" 363 00:29:35,920 --> 00:29:40,719 However, for the philosopher and chief of Yosemite, The morning wall was insurmountable. 364 00:29:40,880 --> 00:29:45,100 It looked too smooth, and required too many anchors. 365 00:29:45,240 --> 00:29:47,849 Harding said: "Fuck it, do it your way. Like always." 366 00:29:48,450 --> 00:29:49,750 Nobody will tell me what to do" 367 00:29:50,640 --> 00:29:56,011 And with a backpack of bolts, Harding began his attack on Porann's walls 368 00:29:57,040 --> 00:30:03,450 In front of those watching from below, Harding struck anchor after anchor. 369 00:30:04,150 --> 00:30:07,549 The path through the wall is marked by a line of bolts. 370 00:30:10,880 --> 00:30:16,258 It was absolute sacrilege thrown to Robbins' ascetic vision 371 00:30:16,440 --> 00:30:21,529 I was really angry, but I thought: "What to expect from Warren" 372 00:30:21,720 --> 00:30:25,472 But this time Harding use one of Robbins' principles 373 00:30:25,600 --> 00:30:26,950 Do not use handrails 374 00:30:28,349 --> 00:30:33,250 and climb in one go with partner Dean Caldwel 375 00:30:34,440 --> 00:30:37,650 Warren was excited about the idea of climbing as lightly as we could 376 00:30:38,250 --> 00:30:41,349 and do all the climbing in one go 377 00:30:41,920 --> 00:30:43,950 They expected 12 days, 378 00:30:45,349 --> 00:30:48,349 but at the end of the second week they were only halfway up the wall. 379 00:30:48,950 --> 00:30:50,150 with dwindling supplies, 380 00:30:53,250 --> 00:30:55,349 and gathering storm clouds 381 00:30:59,200 --> 00:31:02,150 We said: "Let's wait for the storm to come... 382 00:31:03,349 --> 00:31:05,549 ...and let's open a bottle of brandy. 383 00:31:07,240 --> 00:31:12,920 We didn't know how big the storm would come 384 00:31:15,960 --> 00:31:18,250 Concern was growing at the bottom of the Valley: 385 00:31:19,150 --> 00:31:21,849 "Dudes need to be imprisoned, because they don't move at all" 386 00:31:24,040 --> 00:31:27,849 The park staff became nervous and they made a decision 387 00:31:28,250 --> 00:31:30,549 about mobilizing people for rescue purposes 388 00:31:32,760 --> 00:31:33,450 - Have you asked for help? 389 00:31:34,150 --> 00:31:37,549 - No, we didn't even think about withdrawing, We didn't even consider it. 390 00:31:38,800 --> 00:31:42,765 The only thing we considered is reaching the vertex 391 00:31:44,200 --> 00:31:49,133 But support started without questions about the consent of people in the wall 392 00:31:49,280 --> 00:31:50,849 Harding was blunt: 393 00:31:51,450 --> 00:31:54,049 "What's wrong with you people, you fucked up, we don't want help" 394 00:31:54,680 --> 00:31:57,927 We finished with a bottle of wine and we came up with a battle plan 395 00:31:58,080 --> 00:32:00,098 We will fight them if they come 396 00:32:00,320 --> 00:32:03,092 He lowered the can with the inscription: 397 00:32:03,240 --> 00:32:07,750 "Support is UNWANTED, NOT necessary and will NOT be accepted." 398 00:32:08,950 --> 00:32:10,950 And so the rescue operation ended. 399 00:32:14,840 --> 00:32:19,407 The media went crazy. Two climbers... Warren Harding... and Dean Caldwell 400 00:32:19,560 --> 00:32:25,185 ...climb a steep mountain wall... they rejected the rescue helicopter... 401 00:32:25,400 --> 00:32:28,950 They brought Harding's mother to the wall, and she said: 402 00:32:29,549 --> 00:32:33,250 "Oh, it's the longest time, when Warren is away" 403 00:32:37,800 --> 00:32:40,049 After setting the record of 28 days on the wall, 404 00:32:40,750 --> 00:32:43,450 Harding launched the final blow 405 00:32:44,920 --> 00:32:49,552 We thought it wouldn't work, but he was determined. 406 00:32:49,680 --> 00:32:54,333 iron man Yosemite. And even Royal couldn't do it. 407 00:32:54,520 --> 00:32:59,361 They did it, it must have been them. You did it.... 408 00:33:01,840 --> 00:33:08,032 Coming to the top of El Capitan, they had a dull view 409 00:33:11,160 --> 00:33:12,950 There was an army of reporters at the top. 410 00:33:13,750 --> 00:33:17,150 It looked like the Beatles they came from England for the first time 411 00:33:18,150 --> 00:33:20,250 Why do you guys climb? 412 00:33:22,049 --> 00:33:26,150 Because we are mad, there can be no other reason. 413 00:33:28,080 --> 00:33:31,150 Harding became the most famous climber in American history 414 00:33:31,750 --> 00:33:37,950 They climbed 900 meters. Dean Caldwell and Warren Harding are here in the studio with me. 415 00:33:38,049 --> 00:33:43,029 What was written on the can, Which one did you throw to the rescuers? 416 00:33:43,160 --> 00:33:47,866 I think this is inappropriate terminology at this very moment. 417 00:33:49,360 --> 00:33:52,150 As Harding traveled around the country in flashy light 418 00:33:53,049 --> 00:33:56,150 At Camp 4, Robbins is furious. 419 00:33:56,650 --> 00:33:59,549 Royal Robbins has become completely unbearable. 420 00:33:59,650 --> 00:34:02,750 I thought Harding did it incorrectly. 421 00:34:03,549 --> 00:34:04,450 He was furious at the number of bolts.... 422 00:34:05,049 --> 00:34:07,349 I think they incarcerated about 300. 423 00:34:08,240 --> 00:34:11,449 I knew I had to do something or shut up. 424 00:34:12,250 --> 00:34:14,250 I decided to take action. 425 00:34:15,880 --> 00:34:18,150 Royal stood in front of the Porann wall.... 426 00:34:19,050 --> 00:34:19,849 ...with a chisel. 427 00:34:23,349 --> 00:34:27,150 Determined to remove the bolts from the landscape of Yosemite 428 00:34:28,440 --> 00:34:33,465 Stand in front of the first anchor and cut it off. 429 00:34:36,560 --> 00:34:40,104 Stand in front of the next one and cut it off. I asked: -"Royal, what are you doing?" 430 00:34:40,280 --> 00:34:43,149 Answer: "I'm cutting off the bolts, what do you think?" 431 00:34:43,320 --> 00:34:45,771 In fact, Royal sent a clear message 432 00:34:45,920 --> 00:34:52,704 "Harding, don't ever do that again, 'Cause I'll delete every fucking anchor of yours." 433 00:34:52,880 --> 00:34:55,849 Royal's belief in what is good and what is evil... 434 00:34:56,650 --> 00:34:59,849 ...led him to a destructive act of bitterness. 435 00:35:03,750 --> 00:35:09,949 But something interesting happened. Royal won't go too far 436 00:35:10,949 --> 00:35:15,449 when he was drawn in by the undeniable beauty of this road. 437 00:35:16,449 --> 00:35:18,050 And the higher on the Morning Wall 438 00:35:18,650 --> 00:35:22,949 Robbins realized that Warren Harding don't just rely on anchors. 439 00:35:23,640 --> 00:35:26,788 It was a brave, creative climb. 440 00:35:26,920 --> 00:35:27,949 He said, "You know, this way, 441 00:35:28,050 --> 00:35:30,949 "It's definitely more difficult than I imagined" 442 00:35:31,650 --> 00:35:34,650 I had to transcend myself by following his line. 443 00:35:35,250 --> 00:35:42,550 and I was filled with admiration for his craftsmanship. 444 00:35:43,680 --> 00:35:47,053 Warren Harding climbed in an inspiring way. 445 00:35:47,200 --> 00:35:50,688 I thought, "What am I doing? This isn't right" 446 00:35:50,880 --> 00:35:58,349 So I stopped removing the anchors and started climb his way. 447 00:36:01,520 --> 00:36:06,667 It was very difficult for Royal to humble himself, but eventually you will do it. 448 00:36:06,840 --> 00:36:11,474 And I think Morning Wall was a turning point for him. 449 00:36:11,560 --> 00:36:17,150 It's hard to admit... I have to say, that my reaction was... 450 00:36:17,750 --> 00:36:19,349 ...Harding got all the fame. 451 00:36:20,560 --> 00:36:21,949 And I felt that I also deserved something. 452 00:36:23,349 --> 00:36:27,750 And it was a personal matter. My ego. 453 00:36:33,849 --> 00:36:35,349 A clash of egos between two gladiators of this era 454 00:36:36,050 --> 00:36:39,349 brought its harvest on the Morning Wall. 455 00:36:40,240 --> 00:36:41,750 Never again Harding or Robbins 456 00:36:42,449 --> 00:36:45,250 They didn't make any big road in Yosemite. 457 00:36:47,720 --> 00:36:49,050 They both stopped in the climbing competition, 458 00:36:49,349 --> 00:36:53,349 that has fueled them for the last 14 years. 459 00:36:55,849 --> 00:37:00,449 Robbins and his wife Liz they founded a climbing clothing company. 460 00:37:01,449 --> 00:37:05,150 Meanwhile, Harding spent his days with his mother on the porch, 461 00:37:05,949 --> 00:37:07,550 ...always with a glass in hand. 462 00:37:08,240 --> 00:37:12,617 - Remember when I was on East El Cap in Yosemite? - Yes 463 00:37:12,800 --> 00:37:20,844 - And I'm rich and famous?... - Rich? Where is the wealth? 464 00:37:28,840 --> 00:37:31,150 When the Golden Age of Yosemite was coming to an end 465 00:37:33,449 --> 00:37:36,849 in America, the cultural revolution has grown greatly. 466 00:37:38,480 --> 00:37:43,217 We're talking about the early 70s, Jimmie Hendrix and the Watergate scandal, 467 00:37:43,360 --> 00:37:48,727 the war in Vietnam is still going on to general dissatisfaction 468 00:37:48,920 --> 00:37:51,083 There was basically nothing to hold on to. 469 00:37:51,200 --> 00:37:55,650 An alternative community was being created unafraid and flying to hell. 470 00:37:56,349 --> 00:37:57,849 The culture was changing. 471 00:37:58,800 --> 00:38:01,904 Even National Parks felt its impact. 472 00:38:02,040 --> 00:38:03,949 When the Bay Area Hippies (San Francisco) 473 00:38:03,750 --> 00:38:06,449 they spread across the Yosemite Plateau 474 00:38:07,400 --> 00:38:10,685 We have two cultures here... ....we have a serious problem here. 475 00:38:10,840 --> 00:38:17,797 It looked like a Valley was preparing for the next revolution 476 00:38:18,920 --> 00:38:24,834 Lords of Rock 1973-1980 477 00:38:31,080 --> 00:38:38,472 In the early 70's a new seed of climbers was sown in Yosemite. 478 00:38:43,560 --> 00:38:46,550 Around 73', 74' we started going down to Yosemite 479 00:38:47,349 --> 00:38:50,050 We gathered at Biwak 4 as a group. 480 00:38:50,680 --> 00:38:52,250 We were a bit of idiots, 481 00:38:52,750 --> 00:38:54,550 We stood on the stage. 482 00:38:58,760 --> 00:39:01,250 A new group of hippie athletes including John Long 483 00:39:01,849 --> 00:39:03,849 - I was only a short distance from poverty 484 00:39:04,560 --> 00:39:08,449 Dale Bard. - I had no money, no food, nothing... 485 00:39:09,099 --> 00:39:11,852 Dean Fidelman, - What we had was great style and great balls 486 00:39:12,686 --> 00:39:15,730 Ron Kauk, - it's a feeling that you're coming here. 487 00:39:16,400 --> 00:39:19,800 John Bachar. - I'm here about 300 days a year 488 00:39:20,199 --> 00:39:22,800 and a promising 16-year-old - Lynn Hill 489 00:39:23,040 --> 00:39:27,000 - It was definitely a macho culture... ...a lot of testosterone 490 00:39:27,640 --> 00:39:31,874 - If you want to hang out with these guys... ...you have to climb hard. 491 00:39:33,560 --> 00:39:37,699 The shaman of this new tribe was Jim Bridwell 492 00:39:37,799 --> 00:39:40,250 - Bridwell, our leader - Definitely, the coolest guy 493 00:39:41,200 --> 00:39:48,276 During the great events of the 1960s Bridwell was a student of Robbins and Harding. 494 00:39:48,440 --> 00:39:49,050 He's an arrogant boy 495 00:39:49,449 --> 00:39:52,650 similar to Alfred E Neuman, with fucking ears sticking out 496 00:39:54,520 --> 00:40:00,997 But this boy, he matured soon to become the leader of the climbers in Yosemite 497 00:40:01,080 --> 00:40:03,250 Climbed with Robbins, climbed with everyone. 498 00:40:03,849 --> 00:40:07,449 This is the passion and dedication we were looking for. 499 00:40:08,600 --> 00:40:11,150 Bridwell ran roads in parts of El Cap like this 500 00:40:11,750 --> 00:40:13,750 that Robbins and Harding wouldn't dare. 501 00:40:15,320 --> 00:40:17,750 Jim Bridwell was a kind of new force 502 00:40:18,650 --> 00:40:21,449 New roads on El Cap: bold, dangerous. 503 00:40:22,200 --> 00:40:25,750 For me, climbing is about discovering your limits and moving them. 504 00:40:26,550 --> 00:40:30,250 Experimenting with the environment and yourself at the same time. 505 00:40:31,040 --> 00:40:32,849 When to climb a large wall shined for good 506 00:40:32,949 --> 00:40:37,349 Bridwell contributed to climbing a large coffee of the Age of Aquarius 507 00:40:38,200 --> 00:40:43,282 In those days we still had good drugs, you know... psychedelics... 508 00:40:47,600 --> 00:40:55,748 This is the fearlessness that comes directly from the liberated personality. 509 00:40:55,880 --> 00:41:04,507 During this period Bridwell created a kind of tribe and became a cult figure 510 00:41:04,680 --> 00:41:08,721 - Bridwell was the Grand Lama, that's what it looked like - The guy was great... OK... 511 00:41:08,880 --> 00:41:12,150 I can determine my path, knowing what it requires, 512 00:41:13,250 --> 00:41:15,849 and then go downstairs and pick a band. 513 00:41:16,480 --> 00:41:20,560 It was an honor when Bridwell said, that he would like to climb with you. 514 00:41:20,680 --> 00:41:22,650 But going climbing with Jim Bridwell 515 00:41:23,849 --> 00:41:26,550 it could become a terrifying initiation rite. 516 00:41:27,200 --> 00:41:29,650 When you were a teenager taken on a road I didn't know, 517 00:41:30,449 --> 00:41:31,250 who knows what could have happened? 518 00:41:32,480 --> 00:41:35,309 He had no fucking idea what was going to happen on one of those big things. 519 00:41:35,720 --> 00:41:41,179 I looked down and it wasn't nice, We've seen the worst possible scenarios. 520 00:41:41,200 --> 00:41:43,449 We knew there was a serious problem 521 00:41:44,250 --> 00:41:47,050 with a serious probability falling and death 522 00:41:48,680 --> 00:41:55,317 - I looked and said, "What was I thinking?" - We were balancing on a thread. 523 00:41:54,949 --> 00:41:56,750 You enter a wall, make a new line... 524 00:41:57,250 --> 00:41:58,449 And he's on acid. 525 00:41:59,000 --> 00:42:01,900 - Bridwell was taking drugs in the walls. - He's fucked up! 526 00:42:02,300 --> 00:42:07,199 And after a while... never mind, he's tied up... if he wants... then OK! 527 00:42:13,000 --> 00:42:15,849 - There is a thin line between courage and stupidity... 528 00:42:17,250 --> 00:42:19,449 ...although sometimes they may interpenetrate. 529 00:42:30,280 --> 00:42:33,550 In 1975 Bridwell planned to do something 530 00:42:34,349 --> 00:42:40,615 every few years earlier it couldn't even be imagined 531 00:42:39,760 --> 00:42:44,227 - We thought we'd make a Nose to El Capitan in one day. 532 00:42:44,400 --> 00:42:47,349 The most famous road in Yosemite - The Nose, 533 00:42:48,050 --> 00:42:53,349 It took Warren Harding 2 years Royal Robbins, one week. 534 00:42:54,360 --> 00:42:58,250 And now Bridwell wanted to do it the entire 900m of this road in 1 day 535 00:42:58,750 --> 00:42:59,650 Are you kidding me...?! 536 00:43:00,280 --> 00:43:03,750 Leave food and water and equipment for multi-day climbing. 537 00:43:04,349 --> 00:43:06,250 He wanted to be light... and fast... 538 00:43:06,920 --> 00:43:09,252 in a crazy rush to the top 539 00:43:11,080 --> 00:43:16,296 In the evening, Bridwell and his crew they reported to the top of El Cap 540 00:43:16,480 --> 00:43:19,496 - I thought it would be a good idea to come back before he closed the bar. 541 00:43:19,560 --> 00:43:24,295 There was no longer any doubt that the new team wants to leave a trace 542 00:43:24,400 --> 00:43:31,258 - We don't take anyone... get the fuck out of the way... .... Here we are. 543 00:43:38,440 --> 00:43:45,075 Coming soon, Bridwell's students they became masters of his art 544 00:43:45,200 --> 00:43:48,949 We became addicted to adrenaline and unbridled ambition. 545 00:43:49,449 --> 00:43:50,750 We wanted to set new standards 546 00:43:51,400 --> 00:43:52,650 When we started climbing 547 00:43:53,250 --> 00:43:55,849 we didn't want to just raise the bar We rejected it. 548 00:43:56,750 --> 00:44:00,150 We assumed creating completely new rules of the game and a new form of climbing. 549 00:44:03,160 --> 00:44:07,204 The breakthrough for our generation was "free climbing" /classic climbing/ 550 00:44:07,400 --> 00:44:08,849 Free climbing revolutionized this sport 551 00:44:09,449 --> 00:44:11,750 What we can do only with our arms and legs 552 00:44:12,760 --> 00:44:15,349 For previous generations, the hook was the norm. 553 00:44:16,150 --> 00:44:21,050 Hanging from equipment and using it to climb 554 00:44:21,800 --> 00:44:26,349 Hitting the hook on the wall, hanging the ladder, step over it and start the process again 555 00:44:26,250 --> 00:44:28,050 The equipment directly helps the climber. 556 00:44:28,840 --> 00:44:32,459 Classic climbing changed everything. 557 00:44:33,680 --> 00:44:39,912 Now the climbers were hanging on their own toes and performed a vertical dance. 558 00:44:40,040 --> 00:44:43,150 When you do classic climbing you use your arms and legs to hold on to the wall. 559 00:44:43,849 --> 00:44:46,050 You have to put your fingers in the gap and rest your legs 560 00:44:46,949 --> 00:44:51,047 By providing protection occasionally, you use the rope only to belay yourself in the event of a fall 561 00:44:51,160 --> 00:44:55,150 You are looking for small holes and you don't know if it's enough. 562 00:44:56,650 --> 00:44:59,750 Your arm is burning, your fingers are starting to open. 563 00:45:01,040 --> 00:45:04,861 and you have to get over it... 564 00:45:05,150 --> 00:45:07,949 - Fly - All right 565 00:45:08,040 --> 00:45:11,250 Free climbing required a new level of athleticism. 566 00:45:11,849 --> 00:45:15,349 Climbers exercised on steep cliffs and rocks. 567 00:45:21,800 --> 00:45:24,349 Bridwell's group... these guys were dynamite. 568 00:45:25,050 --> 00:45:28,349 - they raised the physical aspect of climbing in Yosemite high 569 00:45:29,349 --> 00:45:33,050 All we did was eat sleeping and climbing... and training. 570 00:45:33,849 --> 00:45:34,849 We practiced like crazy 571 00:45:34,920 --> 00:45:41,700 - They tried to get stronger. - You must have fingers of steel, no fat 572 00:45:41,840 --> 00:45:47,656 But even more important was the mental aspect - Tell me when you'll let go 573 00:45:47,840 --> 00:45:51,373 - it was the era of power - Rolling, Ron Kauk 574 00:45:51,480 --> 00:45:53,650 Raising my climbing level required focus. 575 00:45:54,150 --> 00:45:56,150 You're not the first one out, because you will really feel it. 576 00:45:56,960 --> 00:46:02,818 - He uses the crack as a step to push himself out of it and then the rock breaks. 577 00:46:02,920 --> 00:46:05,949 - Everything's fine? - I relaxed so much. 578 00:46:06,849 --> 00:46:08,150 - You scared me to death 579 00:46:08,200 --> 00:46:10,550 Our goal was to get to know ourselves. 580 00:46:11,550 --> 00:46:14,250 This gave me wings of imagination more than anything else. 581 00:46:25,760 --> 00:46:27,750 A group united by the idea of classical climbing 582 00:46:28,550 --> 00:46:32,849 she soon gained the nickname: "Rock Lords" 583 00:46:33,150 --> 00:46:34,650 - Yes, old Rock Lord 584 00:46:35,949 --> 00:46:40,349 Being the Lord of the Rocks meant climbing like this like the last time in my life 585 00:46:44,680 --> 00:46:45,849 And you had to grow a lot of weed. 586 00:46:46,750 --> 00:46:49,250 Stone=Rock Stoned=Stoned 587 00:46:49,760 --> 00:46:55,382 The name Lord of the Rocks was created while smoking a bong in Richard Harrison's basement 588 00:46:55,520 --> 00:47:04,553 Some say Stoned Masters 589 00:47:04,680 --> 00:47:10,597 These guys climbed better than us. Jim Bridwell dragged a tape recorder to the campsite 590 00:47:10,760 --> 00:47:12,750 The old-timers thought it inappropriate. 591 00:47:13,650 --> 00:47:15,449 We thought this was the way it should be like a communion of nature, like John Muir 592 00:47:15,800 --> 00:47:18,878 not a fucking tape recorder. 593 00:47:20,440 --> 00:47:30,331 I think they did the right thing. They raised the level and destroyed stagnation. 594 00:47:34,200 --> 00:47:36,650 Sex, drugs, rock'n'roll... climbing 595 00:47:38,050 --> 00:47:41,150 A life on the bare edge of society, in the middle of nowhere. 596 00:47:43,480 --> 00:47:51,093 Camp 4 was dirty, filthy, horrible, and a paradise. 597 00:47:51,280 --> 00:47:57,883 We lived together, we trained together and we climbed together 598 00:48:00,760 --> 00:48:06,210 Part of the group went bouldering and did some climbing. 599 00:48:06,640 --> 00:48:08,778 how we connected with this beautiful place and we were drawn in. 600 00:48:08,920 --> 00:48:11,949 It was like magic, a very special time in Yosemite. 601 00:48:12,949 --> 00:48:15,849 We lived in a utopia, we were the kings of utopia 602 00:48:18,960 --> 00:48:22,949 The climbers believed that Yosemite was developing for them. 603 00:48:23,949 --> 00:48:28,050 There are no shops or other tourist attractions there. 604 00:48:29,720 --> 00:48:31,550 The main attraction of Yosemite were the rocks. 605 00:48:32,750 --> 00:48:38,550 And who uses rocks? We. This was the place for us 606 00:48:45,150 --> 00:48:47,550 But that's not how Park sees it 607 00:48:49,849 --> 00:48:54,250 In 1970, at the height of the protests against the Vietnam War, 608 00:48:55,600 --> 00:49:02,608 thousands of hippies gathered in Frisco to a bacchanal in Yosemite. 609 00:49:03,040 --> 00:49:05,250 When the guards decided to lock it down, 610 00:49:05,949 --> 00:49:07,349 the situation has gotten out of control. 611 00:49:08,150 --> 00:49:11,449 It would be an angry crowd. These are regular riots. 612 00:49:10,440 --> 00:49:13,936 My eyes were burning from the tear gas. 613 00:49:14,080 --> 00:49:16,750 From then on, guards could carry weapons 614 00:49:17,449 --> 00:49:20,050 and got permission to use it for law enforcement. 615 00:49:21,560 --> 00:49:23,050 Many of the long-haired people were caught by the police 616 00:49:23,449 --> 00:49:27,349 and I'm glad they're closing the door on them 617 00:49:27,960 --> 00:49:30,349 Many climbers were involved in the riots. 618 00:49:31,349 --> 00:49:36,650 Their long hair and views put them in the crossfire of the Cultural Revolution 619 00:49:37,349 --> 00:49:41,250 I think that between the people involved in the revolt there were no climbers, 620 00:49:42,050 --> 00:49:42,949 but after that climbers were no longer welcome. 621 00:49:44,080 --> 00:49:48,596 Since then, control has been steadily increased over Camp 4 622 00:49:48,720 --> 00:49:53,289 There was a regular battle between climbers and guards. 623 00:49:54,360 --> 00:49:59,436 They began to organize control over camp 4, anyone who smokes ganja 624 00:49:59,600 --> 00:50:04,288 Bad driving, restricted traffic, illegal camping. 625 00:50:04,400 --> 00:50:07,349 I have my share too, I was arrested, and other nonsense... 626 00:50:08,050 --> 00:50:12,750 The police were always looking for something for which they can remove you from the Park 627 00:50:13,120 --> 00:50:16,887 and so we became outlaws. 628 00:50:17,520 --> 00:50:20,050 Some guards despised us. 629 00:50:20,750 --> 00:50:25,550 "You are parasites, You live here for free and use up resources." 630 00:50:26,920 --> 00:50:27,949 Because climbing is slow, you get the idea. 631 00:50:29,449 --> 00:50:32,250 live in the car... ...or wherever, enjoy life. 632 00:50:33,120 --> 00:50:38,070 Most of the climbers were slim so chicks were flying at it. 633 00:50:38,250 --> 00:50:39,250 I think the guards were just jealous. 634 00:50:40,150 --> 00:50:42,250 They were so pissed off because they had to go to work. 635 00:50:43,040 --> 00:50:45,743 and we didn't have to do anything, we just had fun. 636 00:50:45,880 --> 00:50:48,849 In 100 years, no one will remember this guard not even a bit, 637 00:50:49,650 --> 00:50:51,849 but everyone will remember Jim Bridwell 638 00:50:53,600 --> 00:50:56,650 Everyone will remember what this generation did, because it's part of history. 639 00:50:57,150 --> 00:51:00,449 And the guards knew it and it pissed them off. 640 00:51:03,520 --> 00:51:09,050 Winter 1977, mysterious transport plane flying below radar range, 641 00:51:09,750 --> 00:51:14,050 crashed in the mountainous Yosemite region killing the pilots. 642 00:51:15,960 --> 00:51:23,942 This plane was coming back from Colombia and it crashed into the lake 643 00:51:24,120 --> 00:51:26,150 One climber had a girlfriend working at the headquarters, 644 00:51:26,750 --> 00:51:31,050 who heard a conversation about the plane, where it was from and what it had. 645 00:51:32,320 --> 00:51:38,822 The climbers found out and went to see what happened... 646 00:51:39,141 --> 00:51:41,150 The nose of the plane stuck out of the ice 647 00:51:41,949 --> 00:51:44,449 and saw dark shapes in the ice. 648 00:51:45,272 --> 00:51:46,449 They figured out that they would break through the land 649 00:51:47,949 --> 00:51:51,278 Yes, and there was a big pot there, with a marijuana leaf 650 00:51:52,120 --> 00:51:55,050 They opened it and "Oh my god, it's weed," 651 00:51:55,949 --> 00:51:57,849 A strong, red variety of Colombian cannabis. 652 00:51:58,840 --> 00:52:06,831 And there... there were hundreds of them... OK? and then... the rampage began. 653 00:52:11,920 --> 00:52:14,949 The guys went there in the middle of the night, with chainsaws, 654 00:52:15,650 --> 00:52:18,449 they cut the land and took out these aquatic plants. 655 00:52:21,560 --> 00:52:25,449 It started as a narrow pod, and it turned into a mass movement. 656 00:52:26,849 --> 00:52:31,449 Climbers worked hard until they chose the last leaf of marijuana 657 00:52:32,400 --> 00:52:36,729 There was a gold fever. 658 00:52:38,240 --> 00:52:43,671 Soon people's tents started to smell like this It had a very interesting scent 659 00:52:44,000 --> 00:52:49,410 The grass was soaked with gasoline from the crash. Inhale hard... 660 00:52:49,600 --> 00:52:54,150 - And then... BOOM! Explosion It's aviation fuel. 661 00:52:56,050 --> 00:52:58,050 It changed my eyebrows 662 00:52:59,040 --> 00:53:04,968 It gave an extra kick... people liked it. :) 663 00:53:06,080 --> 00:53:09,849 I went to Berkeley and Los Angeles sell some weed 664 00:53:10,650 --> 00:53:13,050 and I came back with my hands full of money. 665 00:53:13,720 --> 00:53:19,931 We made a lot of money... a lot of money! 666 00:53:20,040 --> 00:53:22,750 Soon the climbers had new cars, they ate in restaurants 667 00:53:23,449 --> 00:53:25,349 Water and steaks everywhere. 668 00:53:26,600 --> 00:53:29,826 - They left a $100 tip - People built houses. 669 00:53:30,200 --> 00:53:33,849 The guards knew nothing about the plane until there was nothing left there. 670 00:53:35,199 --> 00:53:38,900 "I have a mine in the pond on Merceed Pass" 671 00:53:39,920 --> 00:53:43,699 At that time, many climbers were smoking 672 00:53:44,800 --> 00:53:48,050 "Yosemite's little secret: One plane falls, thousands of people fly 673 00:53:50,480 --> 00:53:53,954 These were golden times for the Rock Lords 674 00:53:54,080 --> 00:53:56,949 They had a lot of money, and Yosemite was becoming more and more important 675 00:53:57,750 --> 00:54:00,650 the world center of rock climbing. 676 00:54:04,240 --> 00:54:05,150 When you were a climber in Yosemite. 677 00:54:05,949 --> 00:54:09,550 I definitely wanted to present it to the world appropriate level. 678 00:54:10,240 --> 00:54:14,841 Twenty-year-old Lynn Hill proved that a woman can defeat a man 679 00:54:15,000 --> 00:54:18,916 Women usually think they don't have to be as good as the guys 680 00:54:19,040 --> 00:54:23,050 But not me. I pushed myself as far as I could. 681 00:54:24,400 --> 00:54:28,750 It was a small revolution - Ron Kauk, American climbing legend 682 00:54:28,800 --> 00:54:30,449 All these talented climbers 683 00:54:31,050 --> 00:54:34,250 created healthy competition, which pushed their foot further 684 00:54:35,349 --> 00:54:38,550 But perhaps none of the Rock Lords shines more. 685 00:54:38,550 --> 00:54:41,650 in southern California than John Bachar 686 00:54:43,200 --> 00:54:44,650 When John Bachar first appeared 687 00:54:45,250 --> 00:54:48,550 We thought this guy would become really good. 688 00:54:49,480 --> 00:54:55,924 When it came to training I didn't see anyone even close, 689 00:54:56,080 --> 00:54:58,949 Bachar quickly became a specialist and a purist 690 00:54:59,750 --> 00:55:02,849 the purest and most dangerous forms of climbing - "free solo" 691 00:55:02,320 --> 00:55:08,741 When John Bachar climbs, he literally holds his life in his hands. 692 00:55:08,920 --> 00:55:16,788 No rope, no hooks, just hands, shoes and chalk. This is a free solo style. 693 00:55:16,960 --> 00:55:20,505 You leave the rope and it's just you and the rock. 694 00:55:20,960 --> 00:55:23,750 The idea of climbing without a rope, the slightest mistake, 695 00:55:24,550 --> 00:55:27,550 slipping your leg, there is no margin for error. 696 00:55:28,960 --> 00:55:31,349 If you are eliminated, you go through you hit all the walls and you die. 697 00:55:31,949 --> 00:55:38,050 There is no second try. All it takes is a second of loss of concentration. 698 00:55:42,080 --> 00:55:46,050 For John, soloing is part of climbing mastery 699 00:55:46,750 --> 00:55:51,250 It's like dancing, you have to combine your body and mind to do it. 700 00:55:52,360 --> 00:55:55,150 I need to be alone with the rock. 701 00:55:55,550 --> 00:55:57,849 Isn't this approach too arrogant? 702 00:55:59,640 --> 00:56:03,150 Many say I am suicidal. I don't understand what I'm doing, I don't know... 703 00:56:06,150 --> 00:56:09,250 As long as I'm careful, there's no risk because I'm not going to sleep. 704 00:56:10,449 --> 00:56:14,449 Everything he does is methodical and perfect. 705 00:56:15,400 --> 00:56:16,449 He became a Ruler among the Rock Lords. 706 00:56:17,449 --> 00:56:19,449 And famous, really famous 707 00:56:20,640 --> 00:56:21,750 Get ready to meet John Bachar. 708 00:56:22,250 --> 00:56:25,949 John is probably the best solo climber in the world. 709 00:56:27,200 --> 00:56:29,650 Bachar started on his own time 710 00:56:31,949 --> 00:56:36,050 We will show you a new meaning of the phrase "flying along" 711 00:56:37,000 --> 00:56:42,150 The essence of climbing: John Bachar. You have to know every inch of the rock 712 00:56:42,949 --> 00:56:45,050 Shaving essence: Gillette 713 00:56:46,360 --> 00:56:52,469 In the mid-1980s Bachar and Władcy they returned to the fold of society 714 00:56:52,560 --> 00:56:58,188 And the sleazy crew from Biwak 4 began to change rapidly 715 00:56:58,280 --> 00:57:00,250 Master climber Ron Kauk knows the risk and hardship 716 00:57:00,849 --> 00:57:06,032 climbing mountains, which is why I prefer Ford Broco II 717 00:57:05,160 --> 00:57:09,049 When we started, no one thought that we can make money or be famous 718 00:57:09,160 --> 00:57:12,221 And then things started to change. 719 00:57:12,360 --> 00:57:19,712 We had to make a living from climbing if we wanted to climb all our lives 720 00:57:19,840 --> 00:57:23,496 We looked at the potential possibilities making a dollar here a dollar there. 721 00:57:23,680 --> 00:57:26,730 When you are young you don't think about future prospects. 722 00:57:26,920 --> 00:57:30,349 When you start being famous and you let them put you on a pedestal, 723 00:57:31,250 --> 00:57:35,050 when you start to believe in your own myth, everything starts going to shit. 724 00:57:35,680 --> 00:57:40,509 The Stone Lords began to organize professional competition 725 00:57:40,640 --> 00:57:43,258 "International Climbing Competition" 726 00:57:43,400 --> 00:57:45,750 Many of the Rulers joined the newly emerging trends, 727 00:57:46,750 --> 00:57:54,792 including competitions on artificial climbing walls. 728 00:57:53,960 --> 00:57:59,800 And rock drills made it possible to settle bolts on the hanging walls 729 00:57:59,960 --> 00:58:04,535 By creating physically demanding roads with minimal risk 730 00:58:04,600 --> 00:58:07,357 For many of us, sport climbing was a natural process of evolution 731 00:58:07,480 --> 00:58:13,233 The technique enabled us to climb strongly on previously unimaginable walls. 732 00:58:13,400 --> 00:58:16,550 John Bachar, who was an icon of solo climbing 733 00:58:17,849 --> 00:58:20,550 he became a critic of the direction in which this sport was heading 734 00:58:21,040 --> 00:58:24,442 You know, people showed up who will do everything to shine 735 00:58:24,600 --> 00:58:30,209 Try to shoot 736 00:58:31,520 --> 00:58:38,150 This is ridiculous, there are so many breams, the better for me 737 00:58:38,349 --> 00:58:41,250 He tells people about the idea that should be guided by climbing, 738 00:58:41,949 --> 00:58:43,650 which only he would be able to implement 739 00:58:45,320 --> 00:58:47,650 Bachar was like Royal Robbins, he was a purist, 740 00:58:48,449 --> 00:58:52,550 philosophy in climbing was everything to him 741 00:58:53,449 --> 00:58:56,750 When guys from Stone Masters They brought sport climbing... 742 00:58:57,449 --> 00:59:01,550 ....on the beaten track to Yosemite, Bachar was furious. 743 00:59:02,880 --> 00:59:09,974 Bachar cut off the spikes to piss people off it became unpleasant. 744 00:59:10,120 --> 00:59:17,099 Bachar eliminated the spied route. I got pissed off 745 00:59:17,280 --> 00:59:19,849 I said if one more time If he removes my shit, I'll kick his ass. 746 00:59:20,449 --> 00:59:23,449 He challenged me and I hit him. 747 00:59:26,483 --> 00:59:28,652 Chapman punched him in the face 748 00:59:32,120 --> 00:59:38,396 We started fighting among ourselves. When we were a happy family 749 00:59:38,520 --> 00:59:40,750 This was my family, I grew up with them.... 750 00:59:41,150 --> 00:59:43,550 ...fuck man... should I choose a side now? 751 00:59:45,360 --> 00:59:47,150 When we came here we were so inspired, 752 00:59:47,750 --> 00:59:51,750 simple life, climbing together, making walls together 753 00:59:55,600 --> 01:00:01,403 And finally it ended like this, that our paths diverged 754 01:00:01,600 --> 01:00:05,250 - There was no bond anymore - It wasn't the same community anymore 755 01:00:07,050 --> 01:00:09,650 - It was sad because we were close. 756 01:00:11,960 --> 01:00:19,383 Meanwhile, the Valley that brought Stone Masters together also started to change 757 01:00:19,520 --> 01:00:24,332 10 years later the whole place was commercialized. 758 01:00:24,480 --> 01:00:26,550 There is parking, fees, no camping spots. 759 01:00:27,250 --> 01:00:31,050 Everything is limited, separated and controlled. 760 01:00:32,120 --> 01:00:38,268 In 1978, approximately 2.5 million people visited Yosemite 761 01:00:38,400 --> 01:00:40,150 Stone Masters fit in with what was 762 01:00:41,449 --> 01:00:44,150 but not at all what it turned into 763 01:00:45,960 --> 01:00:51,698 In 1980 or '81 the reign of the Rock Lords came to an end. 764 01:00:51,880 --> 01:00:57,059 It was the end of an era 765 01:00:59,760 --> 01:01:06,186 After leaving Stone Masters Valley they followed their own paths 766 01:01:06,320 --> 01:01:09,000 He remains the old mentor Jim Bridwell establishing... 767 01:01:09,400 --> 01:01:14,849 ...first ascents on big walls from Alaska to Patagonia 768 01:01:16,440 --> 01:01:19,750 It was an adventure, climbing for climbing's sake. 769 01:01:20,550 --> 01:01:24,650 Lionel Terray rightly said "useless gains" 770 01:01:26,200 --> 01:01:28,250 Wall climbing is something for young people. 771 01:01:28,849 --> 01:01:31,250 One day you wake up and realize, that you are not young anymore 772 01:01:32,160 --> 01:01:35,949 John Long, member of Stone Masters went to Hollywood 773 01:01:36,150 --> 01:01:39,849 made a film about the crash of a drug plane 774 01:01:40,680 --> 01:01:43,250 He wrote a script and sent it to Sylvester Stallone. 775 01:01:43,449 --> 01:01:47,050 After modifications finally "Cliffhanger" (On the Edge) was created 776 01:01:58,120 --> 01:02:04,650 John Bachar after they broke up with Stone Masters, left the Valley 777 01:02:05,449 --> 01:02:09,949 and continue to raise the bar for free solo style for the next 20 years 778 01:02:12,650 --> 01:02:14,250 Bachar will never change 779 01:02:15,050 --> 01:02:17,650 John stuck to his basics and continue to raise limits 780 01:02:18,320 --> 01:02:20,449 I think Bachar was one of the most important figures 781 01:02:21,150 --> 01:02:22,949 extreme sports of the twentieth century. 782 01:02:22,750 --> 01:02:25,349 Unquestionably. 783 01:02:27,480 --> 01:02:40,316 One day at the age of 52 the Stone Masters maestro dropped out and died 784 01:02:43,200 --> 01:02:46,747 But the history of Stone Masters has not faded away 785 01:02:46,920 --> 01:02:54,769 When I left California in 1983 and I traveled around the world dedicated to climbing 786 01:02:54,920 --> 01:03:00,857 ...I won the competition... - Great... Lynn Hill won the world championship 787 01:03:01,000 --> 01:03:02,550 ...But Yosemite was on my mind 788 01:03:03,349 --> 01:03:07,449 - In the early 1990s, Lynn Hill returned to Yosemite 789 01:03:08,250 --> 01:03:10,449 with a bold vision. 790 01:03:10,650 --> 01:03:18,140 I wanted to be the first person which will make the classic ascent to the Nose, to El Cap. 791 01:03:18,280 --> 01:03:20,550 This is the most famous and historic climb. 792 01:03:21,349 --> 01:03:25,550 and was like the culmination of my development as a climber. 793 01:03:26,440 --> 01:03:28,849 Up to this point, every climb on the Nose 794 01:03:29,449 --> 01:03:31,449 From Harding to Bridwel 795 01:03:32,449 --> 01:03:35,449 was carried out using the hook method with hanging on the equipment 796 01:03:36,600 --> 01:03:39,860 The next big step was: "When will this become a classic?" 797 01:03:40,000 --> 01:03:44,550 Classicizing the Nose could have been the culmination of the revolution 798 01:03:44,650 --> 01:03:46,750 started by Stone Masters in the 1970s 799 01:03:47,760 --> 01:03:49,150 Getting your nose done classically was a reward, 800 01:03:49,750 --> 01:03:54,349 the best climbers wanted it, dreamed about it. 801 01:03:56,200 --> 01:03:58,349 And Lynn just walked in there. 802 01:03:59,250 --> 01:04:01,750 - Oh my god! El Cap could have been done classically! 803 01:04:03,000 --> 01:04:05,849 It was groundbreaking and it was done by a woman 804 01:04:06,050 --> 01:04:11,513 - It happened, guys! 805 01:04:13,040 --> 01:04:15,650 Lynn's climb was heard around the world 806 01:04:16,150 --> 01:04:19,949 - Ladies and gentlemen, the best rock climber in the world, Lynn Hill 807 01:04:25,120 --> 01:04:33,564 It was a catalyst for pilgrimages to Yosemite for a new generation of climbers. 808 01:04:35,240 --> 01:04:39,376 Many began to come to Yosemite in the mid-1990s 809 01:04:39,520 --> 01:04:42,504 The first time I came to Yosemite... ...I shit my pants. 810 01:04:42,640 --> 01:04:47,611 I saw Cap... oh god it's 10 times bigger than I thought 811 01:04:47,800 --> 01:04:52,899 Yosemite was like a promised land, a legendary place. 812 01:04:53,040 --> 01:04:55,449 Coming to Bivouac 4 was difficult for these people 813 01:04:55,550 --> 01:04:57,449 this was the place of legends, of the gods of Yosemite 814 01:04:58,640 --> 01:05:03,916 Bachar and Kauk, Robbins and Harding - These were the heroes we read about 815 01:05:04,080 --> 01:05:07,462 I stood there wondering if you too could make a legend 816 01:05:07,600 --> 01:05:13,336 Soon the young and ambitious refreshed smallpox the situation in Yosemite 817 01:05:13,520 --> 01:05:15,650 This group held Yosemite for the next 15 years 818 01:05:15,750 --> 01:05:20,307 on the sharp edge of modern climbing. 819 01:05:19,520 --> 01:05:26,713 As a reference to previous generations They called their group Stone Monkeys 820 01:05:31,920 --> 01:05:37,751 So it started again. The young generation is bold. The wild has returned. 821 01:05:38,120 --> 01:05:40,550 Among the Monkeys there were wall pirates, 822 01:05:43,050 --> 01:05:44,550 various kinds of witches 823 01:05:47,150 --> 01:05:49,449 and the best climbers the world has ever seen. 824 01:05:50,360 --> 01:05:52,150 I spent a lot of years of my life there, 825 01:05:52,849 --> 01:05:54,650 grabbing the edge, 826 01:05:55,449 --> 01:05:56,750 jumping into holes 827 01:05:57,050 --> 01:05:59,650 catch some nice flights 828 01:06:01,750 --> 01:06:03,449 I don't know what it is about me, but I love this shit. 829 01:06:04,920 --> 01:06:07,349 - Stone Monkeys - world-famous athletes 830 01:06:08,250 --> 01:06:12,949 They were diverse, but overall they were a bunch of weirdos. 831 01:06:13,560 --> 01:06:16,349 Anyone who wants to climb on big walls and shit in a bag 832 01:06:16,949 --> 01:06:19,050 must be at least a specific type of person. 833 01:06:19,150 --> 01:06:23,449 They had trouble with the law and regulations. 834 01:06:24,150 --> 01:06:25,150 Problems with authority. 835 01:06:25,849 --> 01:06:26,949 fatal experiences. 836 01:06:38,360 --> 01:06:39,849 Bridwell was originally Stone Masters 837 01:06:40,849 --> 01:06:42,050 Now he is Monkey 838 01:06:42,250 --> 01:06:43,949 Are these guys really carrying the torch? 839 01:06:46,240 --> 01:06:54,593 This fire still burns in the heart of the Valley 840 01:06:55,640 --> 01:06:57,650 III. Stone Monkeys 1998 - present 841 01:07:00,250 --> 01:07:01,650 The era of Stone Monkeys has begun 842 01:07:02,349 --> 01:07:04,449 when the 195 cm local from New Hempshire, 843 01:07:04,550 --> 01:07:06,750 Dean Potter went to the Valley 844 01:07:10,520 --> 01:07:16,456 I was a little scared at first, the walls were huge and inaccessible. 845 01:07:16,600 --> 01:07:18,449 I was overwhelmed just by the experience here, 846 01:07:19,250 --> 01:07:22,250 I did a boulder on one side and I wanted to go home 847 01:07:22,960 --> 01:07:27,150 Campsite 4 was full of... people... living on the edge 848 01:07:29,150 --> 01:07:31,550 -Oh my god! It's terrifying. 849 01:07:35,800 --> 01:07:42,168 Everything was here and now. Join this frik show and be free 850 01:07:42,320 --> 01:07:47,135 Dean did absolutely crazy solo stuff 851 01:07:52,200 --> 01:07:53,849 Dean was one of the biggest risk-takers. 852 01:07:57,250 --> 01:08:00,550 Jump into anything before anyone else could 853 01:08:01,280 --> 01:08:05,461 Dean was the alpha male in this herd of monkeys 854 01:08:06,480 --> 01:08:08,750 Lead a spiritual revolution. 855 01:08:10,250 --> 01:08:11,050 On big walls 856 01:08:11,250 --> 01:08:16,649 Potter picked up the pace as he started risky fast climbing 857 01:08:19,800 --> 01:08:24,642 I'm making walls so fast as only humanly possible. 858 01:08:26,720 --> 01:08:31,396 El Capitan's speed record became a measure of the quality of art 859 01:08:31,560 --> 01:08:36,425 When Maps joined the competition - the record dropped rapidly 860 01:08:36,560 --> 01:08:46,384 Until Potter and his partner Sean Leary they made 900 m of walls in 2 hours and 30 minutes 861 01:08:47,400 --> 01:08:48,449 Absolute victory. 862 01:08:51,350 --> 01:08:55,350 This was a message to the whole generation, that he should come to the Valley 863 01:08:57,320 --> 01:09:03,945 Then Potter did El Cap and Half Dome solo and in one day. 864 01:09:04,080 --> 01:09:08,449 Free Solo was a new type of climbing, effective and fast. 865 01:09:09,050 --> 01:09:10,750 Speed ​​climbing is like a gladiator sport. 866 01:09:11,680 --> 01:09:16,697 You do everything necessary to get to the top as quickly as possible at any cost. 867 01:09:16,880 --> 01:09:22,564 I carry a piece of rope with me, but above all, they live 868 01:09:22,720 --> 01:09:25,949 Dean was the first one after a long time, set a new direction. 869 01:09:26,449 --> 01:09:28,550 He does things that no one has ever tried. 870 01:09:29,750 --> 01:09:33,449 When Dean Potter was on the covers a naive boy from Sacramento saw him 871 01:09:34,120 --> 01:09:39,261 Alex Honnold discovering this sport on artificial walls. 872 01:09:39,400 --> 01:09:41,850 When I was little and I used to go to the wall I was obsessed with climbing 873 01:09:42,449 --> 01:09:45,550 Well, maybe not obsession, but I liked it more than other things. 874 01:09:46,250 --> 01:09:48,550 I read newspapers, watched movies, 875 01:09:48,850 --> 01:09:52,649 when I grew up, a person who appeared there was Dean Potter 876 01:09:53,449 --> 01:09:55,149 Dean just did the Nose and Half Dome in one day 877 01:09:56,400 --> 01:09:59,807 It was more inspiring than anything else 878 01:09:59,960 --> 01:10:02,750 I got up and left and rushed to Yosemite 879 01:10:03,050 --> 01:10:04,649 faced with previous generations, 880 01:10:05,320 --> 01:10:12,887 see what others are doing, if he could be as good as Dean Potter 881 01:10:17,080 --> 01:10:19,949 When Alex first appeared I was a shy boy 882 01:10:20,449 --> 01:10:23,050 who was hiding in the shadows and he didn't really know what to do with himself. 883 01:10:23,600 --> 01:10:26,350 A clumsy, stupid boy with big ears and a stupid hairstyle. 884 01:10:26,949 --> 01:10:30,949 Is this Dean Potter... oh god... someday, maybe... 885 01:10:31,920 --> 01:10:33,550 This boy with a scared heart, who doesn't know what to do? 886 01:10:34,050 --> 01:10:34,750 Yes, that would be me. 887 01:10:35,920 --> 01:10:37,350 When you think of Yosemite, you think of Dean. 888 01:10:39,550 --> 01:10:43,550 Long hair, confident attitude, such a rebel. 889 01:10:44,480 --> 01:10:45,550 And then Alex Honnold shows up, 890 01:10:47,149 --> 01:10:48,949 Evenly cut, square. 891 01:10:50,850 --> 01:10:52,050 This wasn't hero material. 892 01:10:52,961 --> 01:10:59,024 But as soon as he put on ballet shoes, he was like Clark Kent turning into Superman 893 01:11:05,560 --> 01:11:09,996 Reporting to the Valley, Hannold make an immediate strike. 894 01:11:10,050 --> 01:11:11,949 This Dude Alex is truly on another level. 895 01:11:12,750 --> 01:11:14,350 It breathes, sleeps and feeds on climbing. 896 01:11:14,949 --> 01:11:16,850 studies the history of Yosemite 897 01:11:17,149 --> 01:11:18,850 And I want to be part of it. 898 01:11:20,350 --> 01:11:22,500 He tied himself up on Nose with Dean Potter's old rival 899 01:11:23,000 --> 01:11:25,449 in speed climbing, Hans Florine 900 01:11:27,000 --> 01:11:29,594 and broke Potter's record. 901 01:11:29,720 --> 01:11:32,250 And since Dean did ElCap and Half Dome in one day 902 01:11:32,750 --> 01:11:34,350 Alex upped the ante 903 01:11:35,250 --> 01:11:37,850 and added 700m of Mount Watkins walls 904 01:11:42,800 --> 01:11:44,449 Ultimately, he took the lead away from Dean 905 01:11:45,250 --> 01:11:47,850 The roads have opened and the impossible has ceased to exist 906 01:11:49,000 --> 01:11:53,240 If you think so. that you can't do something just climb harder. 907 01:11:53,400 --> 01:11:57,449 Climbing alone in one train during the day and at night 908 01:11:58,149 --> 01:12:03,649 Alex Honnold made three the highest walls of Yosemite in 18 hours 909 01:12:04,280 --> 01:12:05,742 It's coming, it's right below us. 910 01:12:13,520 --> 01:12:17,250 Yes, I had mixed feelings when Alex showed up. 911 01:12:18,149 --> 01:12:19,850 But that's how it is 912 01:12:20,720 --> 01:12:25,524 when the next generations come break barriers, you accept it. 913 01:12:25,680 --> 01:12:29,050 Alex is driven by a competitive spirit with Dean, 914 01:12:29,449 --> 01:12:32,250 but it was necessary to expand the boundaries of the impossible 915 01:12:38,760 --> 01:12:41,750 Alex left behind an indelible mark in free solo climbing 916 01:12:43,050 --> 01:12:46,850 cross-country skiing was moving towards larger and more difficult routes 917 01:13:06,400 --> 01:13:11,750 Alex Honold is amazing. Take "free solo" to a new level. 918 01:13:12,400 --> 01:13:15,149 He started where Bachar left off and continued. 919 01:13:16,250 --> 01:13:18,850 Some ways I can't believe I've experienced them. 920 01:13:20,760 --> 01:13:25,773 I will make the roads Bachar mentioned I didn't even dream that it would be over-salted. 921 01:13:25,880 --> 01:13:27,149 My soloing in Yosemite grew out of that 922 01:13:27,949 --> 01:13:30,350 what Dean was doing in front of me and Bachar in front of him. 923 01:13:31,840 --> 01:13:35,997 Just a little harder and a little higher. 924 01:13:40,800 --> 01:13:44,149 They do things they can't really watch 925 01:13:46,750 --> 01:13:49,350 but we must respect the vision of the new generation. 926 01:13:54,960 --> 01:13:59,435 Soloing is definitely a master level, the final exam. 927 01:13:59,600 --> 01:14:02,350 Will you salt it? Are you comfortable in this position? 928 01:14:03,350 --> 01:14:04,750 Are you able to do this? 929 01:14:07,080 --> 01:14:13,455 Part of the pillar is pure physicality, climb so well you won't fall off, 930 01:14:13,560 --> 01:14:20,881 but part of it is also this, that you are a small dot in a vast ocean of rocks 931 01:14:21,000 --> 01:14:27,625 You can barely move on this huge and impassive wall 932 01:14:46,120 --> 01:14:47,850 The challenge is to control your emotions. 933 01:14:48,750 --> 01:14:52,750 Even knowing that you are in a dangerous position, you gain experience. 934 01:15:02,520 --> 01:15:05,149 When Honnold raised feeding rates, 935 01:15:06,750 --> 01:15:11,050 Potter found a new way for testing gravity and risk 936 01:15:15,640 --> 01:15:19,050 Using the old Camp 4 rest game - Slackline 937 01:15:19,649 --> 01:15:24,449 Slacklines at the camp were used to exercise balance. 938 01:15:25,350 --> 01:15:29,750 and evolved into a form that defies death. 939 01:15:41,440 --> 01:15:46,558 Everything I do, I do to to feel more free. 940 01:15:47,640 --> 01:15:51,850 High on the rope, do not block fear. 941 01:15:52,850 --> 01:15:57,250 I feel fear absorbing everything around me. 942 01:15:58,360 --> 01:16:06,289 I try to calm my heart, not to let it go to hyperventilate and stay focused. 943 01:16:14,640 --> 01:16:18,333 Whore! Whore! 944 01:16:20,240 --> 01:16:21,649 I see what I do as snapshots. 945 01:16:22,250 --> 01:16:27,449 Look at the walls, or the space in between two formations and I want to move there. 946 01:16:28,360 --> 01:16:32,756 then take the dull shutter or flash and realize 947 01:16:42,040 --> 01:16:45,637 I try to do something completely new and creative 948 01:16:45,800 --> 01:16:49,463 new ways to face your fear. 949 01:16:59,280 --> 01:17:07,783 Yosemite is a powerful place. great rock, great light and big walls. 950 01:17:07,920 --> 01:17:13,468 They draw us into this immensity and beyond the limits of the possible. 951 01:17:15,280 --> 01:17:22,022 "Monkeys" have one thing in common, love and passion for this place. 952 01:17:22,200 --> 01:17:26,814 But not only "Monkeys" love Yosemite 953 01:17:28,040 --> 01:17:31,208 Hey!... Peanut! 954 01:17:32,360 --> 01:17:37,754 Currently, the Park is visited by 4 million tourists a year. 955 01:17:37,880 --> 01:17:40,949 Yosemite Valley became a small town. 956 01:17:42,250 --> 01:17:48,750 Hotels, restaurants, shops, courthouse and prisons 957 01:17:49,640 --> 01:17:52,550 All this fights for space in the valley barely 1.6 km wide 958 01:17:54,449 --> 01:17:58,850 to control the flow of tourists new rules were introduced 959 01:17:59,149 --> 01:18:02,750 Putting restrictions on everyone up to 7 days of camping in Yosemite per year 960 01:18:03,050 --> 01:18:09,850 From September 15, you can stay in Yosemite only for 7 days. 961 01:18:10,550 --> 01:18:13,850 - For most tourists, this is completely enough. 962 01:18:16,880 --> 01:18:20,250 But for climbers this weekly limit is crucial to their existence. 963 01:18:20,850 --> 01:18:24,250 - 7 days! In seven days you can barely start. 964 01:18:25,040 --> 01:18:27,750 If you want to do something in Yosemite, you have to be there for at least a month 965 01:18:28,350 --> 01:18:30,550 You have to give these walls years. 966 01:18:31,350 --> 01:18:34,350 If you climb in Yosemite, you have to break this rule. 967 01:18:37,360 --> 01:18:38,550 The one who wants to stay longer in Yosemite 968 01:18:38,949 --> 01:18:41,850 he must do it illegally, sleeping between stones. 969 01:18:42,449 --> 01:18:45,350 Because they can't stay in the camp for more than a week 970 01:18:46,149 --> 01:18:49,550 and I want to climb, this is my home. They live here among the rocks. 971 01:18:51,750 --> 01:18:56,750 The illegal status has put climbers and rangers in conflict like never before. 972 01:18:57,200 --> 01:19:00,550 The guards are not particularly happy from the obligation to enforce this regulation. 973 01:19:01,050 --> 01:19:03,750 - It's a game of cat and mouse. They hunt climbers. 974 01:19:04,440 --> 01:19:06,449 The guards have stun guns and night vision goggles 975 01:19:06,949 --> 01:19:09,350 At two in the morning he hits your eyes with a light 976 01:19:09,449 --> 01:19:13,586 and you have absolutely no idea what's going on. 977 01:19:14,320 --> 01:19:18,550 You know, guards used to have to have a degree in biology 978 01:19:19,149 --> 01:19:22,850 No, no, young lady. Nobody tells you that you can't pick these flowers 979 01:19:23,880 --> 01:19:27,350 and now I have to have a marksman's certificate. 980 01:19:33,920 --> 01:19:41,221 - that's just shitty - I understand that the park must have rules... 981 01:19:41,360 --> 01:19:44,850 ...but I hate it when I can't be free 982 01:19:46,350 --> 01:19:46,949 - Hey, what's up? 983 01:19:47,499 --> 01:19:48,399 - Turn off the camera 984 01:19:48,350 --> 01:19:49,850 - Uhmm... not really. 985 01:19:50,250 --> 01:19:53,949 - Get out of the car - Why are you stopping me? 986 01:19:53,720 --> 01:19:58,868 - You forced priority - That's not true, I think you're persecuting me 987 01:19:59,040 --> 01:20:01,649 Stone Monkeys tried to live like us 30 years ago 988 01:20:02,449 --> 01:20:06,350 and that meant going against the law and regulations 989 01:20:06,640 --> 01:20:11,195 - This mentality is part of Yosemite, I have no idea how to do it. 990 01:20:11,360 --> 01:20:19,615 Bypassing the system, Maps, gathered around the strange leader 991 01:20:20,640 --> 01:20:21,850 Charles Tucker aka Chongo Chuck 992 01:20:22,449 --> 01:20:26,649 - He came here about 20 years ago... and never actually left. 993 01:20:27,960 --> 01:20:29,949 - Chongo is like a survivalist. 994 01:20:30,550 --> 01:20:33,250 - He taught us how to easily outsmart the guards. 995 01:20:33,920 --> 01:20:35,149 He said where to sleep so he wouldn't get caught 996 01:20:35,550 --> 01:20:37,850 He showed us that it is possible to live under constant surveillance. 997 01:20:38,600 --> 01:20:40,949 Chongo was like some Yoda 998 01:20:42,250 --> 01:20:45,250 - The monkeys appeared and I started teaching them tricks... 999 01:20:46,240 --> 01:20:48,850 -...so they can live as adventure as they can. 1000 01:20:49,649 --> 01:20:52,350 It was Chongo who came up with the rope idea 1001 01:20:53,160 --> 01:20:59,185 Chongo is the father of slackline. They used to say: "...if I can do it, you can too..." 1002 01:20:59,920 --> 01:21:08,433 - You have a lot of trust in me. He wrote books ranging from climbing to the theory of physics. 1003 01:21:08,640 --> 01:21:12,076 This is my book: "Interpreting quantum mechanics through the eyes of a homeless person 1004 01:21:12,240 --> 01:21:19,369 He shares his method for a free breakfast. Bread and butter 1005 01:21:19,560 --> 01:21:22,257 10 portions of butter on one piece of bread, butter - 1000 calories. 1006 01:21:22,966 --> 01:21:28,472 The basis of survival. By doing this, you won't spend too much and you'll stay all year long. 1007 01:21:29,520 --> 01:21:36,326 Climbing, slacklining, these are the goals. You are only young once in your life, 1008 01:21:36,480 --> 01:21:41,050 ...do things you won't be able to do when you're old. 1009 01:21:42,149 --> 01:21:46,649 Because that's what life is all about... to live it. 1010 01:21:49,600 --> 01:21:56,246 Chongo was a spiritual leader, and the guards wanted to make an example of him 1011 01:21:56,360 --> 01:21:57,850 After years of hiding in the shadows, 1012 01:21:58,550 --> 01:22:01,750 the ragtag guru was no longer welcomed by officials. 1013 01:22:02,960 --> 01:22:07,609 who announced that Chongo Chuck, He's been living in Yosemite too long 1014 01:22:07,800 --> 01:22:12,350 The entire guard team was assigned to catch Chongo. 1015 01:22:12,850 --> 01:22:15,850 - They wanted to accuse him of something... anything. 1016 01:22:19,320 --> 01:22:28,782 they were following him. They hunted at night with infrared goggles and they couldn't catch him. 1017 01:22:28,920 --> 01:22:35,816 He was just a shy homeless guy with five backpacks. 1018 01:22:35,960 --> 01:22:38,050 He walks through the forest so slowly. 1019 01:22:38,750 --> 01:22:41,550 - You can't go after someone who's free, isn't it obvious? 1020 01:22:44,480 --> 01:22:49,635 Chongo slept among trees and bushes 1021 01:22:49,800 --> 01:22:59,139 Disappeared. The guards put a briefcase on him, hundreds of pages thick. 1022 01:22:59,320 --> 01:23:02,550 These guys have crossed all boundaries of common sense 1023 01:23:03,149 --> 01:23:05,850 trying to bring Chongo Chuck before blind Themis. 1024 01:23:06,760 --> 01:23:12,493 They wrote that he was a master of hiding. 1025 01:23:12,680 --> 01:23:16,162 This is funny.... 1026 01:23:22,640 --> 01:23:28,418 After a year of hunting, the guards succeeded get Chong and take him to court. 1027 01:23:28,520 --> 01:23:36,258 We had a full court every day of the trial. Do you know how it stinks there? 1028 01:23:37,320 --> 01:23:42,149 When the judge turned to me: 1029 01:23:43,149 --> 01:23:48,250 "Mr. Tucker, your time in Yosemite is over." 1030 01:23:54,480 --> 01:23:56,250 I left this wonderful world 1031 01:23:57,449 --> 01:24:00,649 and I went to the homeless center in the state capital, 1032 01:24:03,250 --> 01:24:04,750 to live under the bridge. 1033 01:24:06,040 --> 01:24:07,750 The contrast was stunning. 1034 01:24:10,149 --> 01:24:15,250 To the guards, Chongo was an outcast, dirty. He was a rock for us 1035 01:24:16,680 --> 01:24:21,050 Chongo Chuck's firing was a sign 1036 01:24:21,149 --> 01:24:23,350 that Yosemite's time of freedom can be considered a thing of the past. 1037 01:24:24,440 --> 01:24:31,637 Many modern climbers completely different from those from the 60's and 70's 1038 01:24:31,800 --> 01:24:36,371 When I see photos from the 1960s, it was like Neverland and the Lost Boys 1039 01:24:36,520 --> 01:24:42,812 It must have been great but today we have to share with 4 million tourists 1040 01:24:43,000 --> 01:24:47,250 Everyone has their own time in Yosemite. For me it's OK.... 1041 01:24:48,250 --> 01:24:50,449 I left the Park and slept on the side of the road 1042 01:24:50,720 --> 01:24:53,649 outside the campsites, because it could be illegal. 1043 01:24:54,550 --> 01:24:56,550 And that's a concession I can make. 1044 01:24:59,240 --> 01:25:04,170 Because for me the most important thing is climbing and I want to do it as often as possible 1045 01:25:08,080 --> 01:25:13,449 The guards thought if expels the leader, the whole tribe will fall away. 1046 01:25:14,050 --> 01:25:19,050 But that won't stop the tears, this won't stop the Stone Monkeys. 1047 01:25:21,250 --> 01:25:27,050 Chongo and the old fathers showed us that if an idea is created 1048 01:25:28,050 --> 01:25:31,149 then if you have the desire and will, you can make it happen. 1049 01:25:36,600 --> 01:25:37,750 The next evolution in the walls of Yosemite 1050 01:25:38,850 --> 01:25:40,649 led climbers in a completely new direction 1051 01:25:41,892 --> 01:25:44,186 when Dean and his Stone Monkeys buddies they started practicing Base Jumping 1052 01:25:46,550 --> 01:25:49,149 Base Jumping is jumping from various objects.... 1053 01:25:51,050 --> 01:25:52,949 ...with a parachute. 1054 01:25:53,600 --> 01:25:57,350 The same formations that made that Yosemite was a climbers' paradise 1055 01:25:58,050 --> 01:26:01,149 have become a paradise for base jumpers 1056 01:26:01,960 --> 01:26:06,357 You can't jump from one of these heights anywhere else in the US 1057 01:26:06,520 --> 01:26:13,994 Starting platform suspended above thousand-meter walls Perfect. 1058 01:26:14,120 --> 01:26:17,750 It makes sense to climb this wall and then jump. 1059 01:26:18,350 --> 01:26:20,449 All monkeys soon became flying monkeys 1060 01:26:20,960 --> 01:26:22,250 Virtually everyone I know has become a Base jumper 1061 01:26:22,750 --> 01:26:25,250 It's a great way to get back down. 1062 01:26:25,520 --> 01:26:31,750 Not only can you climb and jump, but you can also fly 1063 01:26:32,720 --> 01:26:35,350 Many climbers saw the beauty in flying. 1064 01:26:36,550 --> 01:26:39,449 But Base Jumping is banned in Yosemite, 1065 01:26:40,050 --> 01:26:42,649 and the law is inexorable. 1066 01:26:43,149 --> 01:26:45,750 We jump and they chase us. 1067 01:26:46,250 --> 01:26:49,550 The maximum is $5,000 and 6 years in prison 1068 01:26:50,680 --> 01:26:55,941 There were thousands of criminal sentences for Base jumpers. 1069 01:26:56,080 --> 01:26:57,050 Taser incident... 1070 01:26:57,850 --> 01:27:02,050 -I collected 5000 volts right into the back of my neck 1071 01:27:02,149 --> 01:27:03,649 ...led to a tragic death. 1072 01:27:04,050 --> 01:27:06,850 They chased him into the river and pressed him until he drowned 1073 01:27:09,920 --> 01:27:17,757 But despite the risks, base jumping in Yosemite is thriving 1074 01:27:19,520 --> 01:27:22,550 If you're going to jump in Yosemite, probably 1075 01:27:23,449 --> 01:27:27,449 you'll want to jump just before dusk or dawn. 1076 01:27:28,240 --> 01:27:30,550 You climb to the top of Half-Dome and you wait for sunset. 1077 01:27:31,850 --> 01:27:33,550 We will be notified about the guards' activity 1078 01:27:34,250 --> 01:27:35,649 through our eyes below. 1079 01:27:36,960 --> 01:27:41,822 - I'll give the green light. -Okay, cool. 1080 01:27:42,680 --> 01:27:48,438 On the edge you are swirling: "God is dead now?" 1081 01:27:55,550 --> 01:27:59,350 Even if you know you can jump safely, it's fear that grips your stomach 1082 01:28:00,080 --> 01:28:02,750 what if there's someone waiting for you among the trees? 1083 01:28:03,350 --> 01:28:08,050 - Do you see anyone? Do you hear that? - No, no one. you are spinning. 1084 01:28:08,850 --> 01:28:10,949 - Don't spin. -Ready? 1085 01:28:13,449 --> 01:28:17,649 Ready, 3, 2, 1... 1086 01:28:21,320 --> 01:28:27,135 When you jump through this little moment everything is perfect. 1087 01:28:28,200 --> 01:28:31,217 You don't think, you just fly. 1088 01:28:35,480 --> 01:28:38,449 All the tension that has built up inside you flies away into space 1089 01:28:39,050 --> 01:28:41,850 Everyone thinks base jumping is scary 1090 01:28:43,080 --> 01:28:46,959 No, it's cool. 1091 01:28:52,240 --> 01:28:54,750 Flying is a basic human dream. 1092 01:28:55,350 --> 01:28:58,949 Spread your wings and soar with the birds, 1093 01:28:59,649 --> 01:29:01,050 it's one of the best feelings in the world. 1094 01:29:01,850 --> 01:29:05,911 Especially in Yosemite, our home. 1095 01:29:21,400 --> 01:29:29,821 When you pass by 2 meters, you feel like you are flying 160 km/h 1096 01:29:30,840 --> 01:29:35,319 You literally rub shoulders with the entire valley. 1097 01:29:42,000 --> 01:29:50,687 As soon as I open the parachute, I start looking for guards and an escape route. 1098 01:29:50,840 --> 01:29:54,938 I have a jumper on ElCap 1099 01:30:06,960 --> 01:30:07,649 - Be quiet. 1100 01:30:09,250 --> 01:30:14,149 - The guards think we're mocking them, because they can't catch us 1101 01:30:15,750 --> 01:30:16,850 But it's not like that. 1102 01:30:17,050 --> 01:30:20,250 For me this is my art and my freedom, 1103 01:30:21,250 --> 01:30:27,149 which unfortunately means I have to circumvent the law. 1104 01:30:29,720 --> 01:30:36,654 For Potter, base jumping became crucial in creating a new form of climbing. 1105 01:30:36,800 --> 01:30:40,350 I have a vision of solo climbing with a parachute. 1106 01:30:43,350 --> 01:30:46,149 Climbing with a base jump as primary protection 1107 01:30:47,449 --> 01:30:48,750 I called it: "free-base" 1108 01:30:49,950 --> 01:30:55,149 With a parachute, lifeguarding it is no longer a game bordering on error 1109 01:30:56,050 --> 01:30:58,350 and can be pushed to the point of falling out. 1110 01:30:58,917 --> 01:31:01,920 Now I can survive on the border 1111 01:31:04,840 --> 01:31:06,350 Free-base has a future. 1112 01:31:07,050 --> 01:31:10,949 This has the potential to open new paths in a safe way. 1113 01:31:12,000 --> 01:31:16,350 While practicing free-base in Yosemite, Dean created a case. 1114 01:31:17,149 --> 01:31:19,850 When he slips and falls, he opens his parachute... 1115 01:31:20,850 --> 01:31:22,050 saves lives.... 1116 01:31:23,360 --> 01:31:27,222 .... but he's breaking the law. 1117 01:31:30,680 --> 01:31:35,589 It's a new form of climbing, that blew the law away in Yosemite. 1118 01:31:35,720 --> 01:31:41,989 The only thing Dean wants is to follow his vision. It's a rebel reflex. 1119 01:31:45,960 --> 01:31:47,850 -Hello, hello, how are you? - All right. 1120 01:31:48,449 --> 01:31:50,050 - Do you need a map or a newspaper? - No, thanks 1121 01:31:51,200 --> 01:31:57,192 -Can you smile for the camera? -Thanks :) 1122 01:32:07,840 --> 01:32:11,649 After 60 years, climbing has evolved in a way 1123 01:32:11,949 --> 01:32:15,750 unimaginable to the early pioneers. 1124 01:32:21,120 --> 01:32:32,012 But the need for adventure remains the same. Into the unknown and beyond the impossible. 1125 01:32:32,440 --> 01:32:36,850 like when Alex Honnold approach the basics of Half-Dome, 1126 01:32:38,250 --> 01:32:43,750 to start a 700m solo climb, without equipment 1127 01:32:45,050 --> 01:32:48,949 armed only with shoes and a bag of chalk. 1128 01:32:54,720 --> 01:32:57,300 Half-Dome was conquered for the first time in 1957 1129 01:32:57,899 --> 01:32:59,500 and was the first large-scale project on earth. 1130 01:33:00,300 --> 01:33:04,300 50 years later Alex Honold came with the idea of climbing live 1131 01:33:04,899 --> 01:33:07,449 and it maintains continuity with what is happening today 1132 01:33:11,600 --> 01:33:19,106 What drew Robbins to that wall also drew me. 1133 01:33:19,200 --> 01:33:23,945 ...royalty of this wall of walls? I don't know how to explain how wonderful she is. 1134 01:33:47,280 --> 01:33:51,750 When you are alone on such a big wall, you feel small, 1135 01:33:53,949 --> 01:33:55,649 but you are part of something big, 1136 01:33:58,149 --> 01:34:00,350 rich climbing history in Yosemite 1137 01:34:04,520 --> 01:34:07,800 When did Alex survive Half Dome? 1138 01:34:08,300 --> 01:34:10,949 showed the incredible development of climbing in Yosemite 1139 01:34:12,280 --> 01:34:15,000 Climbing in the Park is constantly evolving. 1140 01:34:15,500 --> 01:34:25,742 People come to show what can be done with passion, vision and heart. 1141 01:34:28,120 --> 01:34:31,500 Yosemite will always be there for the people 1142 01:34:32,000 --> 01:34:35,341 who have a free spirit and enough strength 1143 01:34:35,884 --> 01:34:37,449 For those of us who crave adventure... 1144 01:34:38,649 --> 01:34:40,250 ...on a large scale. 1145 01:34:41,320 --> 01:34:43,899 - I'm Kristof, from Austria 1146 01:34:44,199 --> 01:34:45,399 - I'm from Switzerland 1147 01:34:45,899 --> 01:34:46,850 - I'm here for the Captain. 1148 01:34:47,240 --> 01:34:50,274 Have fun climbing. 1149 01:34:50,440 --> 01:34:52,800 My name is Taylor Free Solo Rees. 1150 01:34:53,500 --> 01:34:56,350 My name is "Free Solo" thanks to my climbing hippie mother 1151 01:34:57,400 --> 01:35:01,399 My name is Sean O'Neill and I'm here for ElCapitan. 1152 01:35:01,800 --> 01:35:05,149 Five hundred pull-ups a day, for a week. I can't wait. 1153 01:35:17,760 --> 01:35:25,167 Climbing has matured and climbers are changing their image. 1154 01:35:25,760 --> 01:35:31,314 Yosemite Renewal is an event that I started 4 years ago 1155 01:35:31,480 --> 01:35:35,149 Climbers and rangers work together to clean the Park. 1156 01:35:35,750 --> 01:35:38,649 And there was always friction between them. 1157 01:35:39,440 --> 01:35:42,899 I think the park staff realized that climbers really love it 1158 01:35:44,300 --> 01:35:48,449 And when the need arises, this mission is in the interest of both groups. 1159 01:35:55,920 --> 01:35:58,250 But in times of growing good will, 1160 01:36:00,550 --> 01:36:03,149 still remains in the heart of Yosemite, 1161 01:36:04,050 --> 01:36:06,350 A spirit that cannot be tempered. 1162 01:37:36,800 --> 01:37:41,021 Many climbers carried the torch of the Yosemite revolution 1163 01:37:41,160 --> 01:37:44,890 These are some of those whose stories could not be included in this film. 1164 01:38:21,401 --> 01:38:26,031 And a few more.... 1165 01:38:39,628 --> 01:38:42,714 And many, many others... 1166 01:38:44,091 --> 01:38:48,550 Great respect for photographers and filmmakers, who immortalized 60 years of Yosemite's climbing history 1167 01:39:00,774 --> 01:39:04,653 This is part of the wing from 77' 1168 01:39:08,448 --> 01:39:13,640 BECAUSE AT THE END OF THE PATH OF LIFE YOU WILL NOT REMEMBER THE TIME YOU SPENT IN THE OFFICE... 1169 01:39:13,890 --> 01:39:19,251 GET THESE FUCKING MOUNTAINS. 1170 01:39:21,002 --> 01:39:26,466 In memory of our friend.